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I remember reading here, a long time ago, about things to do to make axle seal leaks less likely to occur. One piece of advice was to ensure that the pumpkin does not get overfilled (see "crooked finger" advice above; do not fill higher than that) and to use 85w140 conventional gear oil because...

No, it just means to convert to singles on the rear axles, instead of duals. You can keep the stock tires (I did for a while) but it looks a little odd. They are too small to be run as singles (visually, not technically).

I think the M34 style bed looks very distinct and much better than the stock M35 bed. This truck with 11.00R20 or 385 on MRAP wheels (for the not-so-purist) would look really good. The fuel tanks were either stainless or mild steel (the water tanks were always stainless). Cleaning it out, making...

Congrats! It is such a rewarding feeling when the lump starts up for the first time and runs as if it had never stopped. Good job! I am still psychologically damaged from my first ever multi rebuild/refresh and in the back of my head expect it to go into some kind of self destruct sequence...

Mine was leaking when I got the truck and it had been repaired several times (badly). I had it re-cored at a radiator shop and it was less expensive than what I had feared. They boiled out the rest and fixed a couple of pinholes. I got the rad back clean and freshly painted. Going strong since...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?140966-Easy-MV-Wiper-Blade-Fix-replacement-12-quot-civi

So you are basically in need of a mobile tree spade. Hey - you found one! The Deuce is not a collector's item. It is a work truck to be used on your land. It does not need a registration. It needs to run, drive (slowly) and stop. Bent sheet metal or inop lights...no big deal. Basic service...

This is an update to an old thread that suffered inactive links: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?48620-Head-gasket-repair-walk-through The threads below contain pics, videos and tips on how to do the job! https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148514-Head-Gasket-Repair...

I will revive all the links. I found that the trick is to take the dead link...e.g. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/46425-head-gasket-what-else-check.html?highlight=head+gasket Then use a new first part:https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php? .....and add, after the question mark...

For me it removed one opportunity to mess up - mangle the bushings when pressing them in (thumbs up for that). You know, when you have a bunch of spares lying around you won't need them. If you do not have a spare bushing, the first one you press in gets mangled. Murphy is watching. I do not...

I went the easy way and used https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts?product_id=116 Plates with new bushings installed and new shim. I also second using a hand reamer. One fit perfectly out of the box, the other needed one or two gentle passes to fit easily and snugly.

Thanks for taking the time to do a write-up. This will help someoune out. I ended up using Wolverine's alternator kit and it was a perfect drop-in. My reasoning was similar; high cost for a military unit and less clutter by using a modern alternator.

That five-blade fan looks like something the seven dwarves hammered together. I wonder why they made an asymmetrical fan for this application. To create a gap to allow tool access to something? Change belts without fan removal? You do know that your truck never looked that good, right? Not even...

You want to strike the best balance between pump output and the water that you have. The pump you describe sounds perfectly adequate. Get a hosereel with 1 inch hose or 1 1/2 inch regular firefighting hose folded beside the tank, aim at 100ft or so. If the pump can give you 100psi at max load...

On my wheel hub to drum bolts I did both. Loctite and safety wire. I also replaced the safety wire on the oil pump bolts. Kinda awkward having those fall off I thought. At other locations I am more a Loctite user. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

This looks like a well kept unit. Bumper not mangled, LED lights added, not looking like it was beat up. It will be happy with a new life! Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

I think they are just ordinary grommets every truck supply should have. Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk

Many places will load test your battery and that usually is a good indicator for whether they have life left in them. I have come across many batteries (in the fire service) that are maintained on a battery minder and start the truck just fine. One time, in the station. Once challenged a bit...

With tall tires on it...almost unstoppable! I'd love such a setup. Oh, and then put rubber tracks on the rears....poor man's half track. I stop dreaming now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBlYXjDzYe4

I used a long-arm puller with two arms that fit inside the carrier. I used a steel wood splitting wedge (4lbs) that fit across the axle opening to brace the puller screw against and just pulled the carrier out. Easy peasy, no whacking with a slide hammer or threading of rebar through...