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I bet it does. The only change- or say upgrade- was done at the air-side end. The new part is only longer, incorporating the seal. The OP may be able to confirm that, once he has pulled the bushing out of his other airpack (and that one wasn't that same odd style, of course). Ehh... Rusty, if...

Well, glad to hear... but didn't you know that it is against our rules... NOT TO POST PICTURES...!? :-) G.

Yes, it can be confusing indeed... because that same manual first shows in Figure 112 a sectional view of what I think is a very early version, but then in Figure 114 there is the seal "S" which is exactly what the common 1-piece rod bushing takes. This is also clearly shown in Figure 133 -...

It seems that we just found out there are two versions of the same part, called the pushrod bushing assembly. The one pictured in post #1 must be pre-1955, since the ORD 9 SNL G-742 manual from that year already shows the one-piece bushing. Actually I'd prefer to have the older version: at...

:ditto: I have always wondered about the time- probably months, if not years- it took to come up with those 4792 manuals and have them listed all in one spot! Many of the TM's in our own library were adopted from that source. Great job! I take my hat off to you, Sir! G.

Unbelievable...! Let's see: even at 50psi the loaded radius of a 395/85R20 on the front axle is less than 22". A half-worn 9.00-20 NDCC is 40.5" in diameter, or little over 20", radius. So, on a firm surface it would be off the ground yes, but more like two inches, at most. Let's look at this...

Not his case, I think. Read post #1 again: .... On the first test drive it shook like a dog.... Then in post #4 he says: 100% sure....it didn't do it with the stock tires and wheels... G.

I know you know this but others may not... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMLqlDSsQpA G.

It takes a Grade-8 bolt with a 7/8" x 15/32" head size; 9/16"-12tpi; L = 1-3/8"; 1" threaded area. First clean that hole and make sure you don't have the threads stripped in the knuckle (it can happen!) Then I would ask around here a bit, since you won't find this size in any commercial...

So how much (radial)run-out are we talking about, measured at the tire tread? 1/8"; 1/4"; more than that... ??? How true was the wheel spinning, radially - laterally? 1/8 of an inch? ... less? How was the run-out measured/ controlled? Did you drive the truck for a while, then return home and...

OK, I'm pretty confident that you will remain (OD)infected... and that you know now where to look for "help"... :-) Good luck, on that "new page".......!! G.

Go to our library, this section, then download and study these books: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/809/TM9-2320-260-34P1.pdf http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/809/TM9-2320-260-34P2.pdf http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/939/TM9-2320-272-24P-1.pdf...

Search is our friend: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94703-Rebuilding-Hydraulic-Motor-on-my-M936A1&p=1213261&viewfull=1#post1213261 G.

You don't have to pull the whole transmission, if it only needed a new 2nd-3rd synchro. There are many threads explaining the procedure. Here is one... G.

Both! G.

Here... ...And BTW: there is no need to use that kind of language, not even abbreviated...! G.

Start by reading this thread... G.

If you read this thread; or this one, or maybe this... you'll find the answer to your questions..... G.

No, I'd prefer seeing someone in your part of the world making them (and hopefully be able to cover his cost, at least...) G.

LOL... It sure was less work then removing those rusted pins! And this is typically something you do only once... (for each truck, of course...) Those are common M8 bolts, center-drilled from the head-side (Ø2.5mm) up to the middle of the hinge, more or less. Then another Ø2.5mm-hole, drilled...