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Hey Ron what about a power divider off a 816 and running it backwards so that the extra output runs forward or even a regular transfer case from a 4x4 and run it off of your transfer case PTO.

Okay Ron on a 2-1 pull you need up to double the winch rating? So if I want to be safe with a 20,000 lbs winch I need a 40,000 lbs snatch block?

Thanks for the refresher on the blocks, but I must disagree with you on slope, any increase from °1-°90 will increase the load, from just a little bit to 100%.

I would not try to get around IT but in to it if you show ask that you are trying to work within the law they will be much more willing to try to help you rather than if you are trying to skirt the law. Also you can probably just call the permit office and they will give you the right answer...

Check with a local DOT office about the width issue in some states a wide load sign and a yearly cheap permit is all that would be required, and for a antique registered vehicle many states don't require a CDL, look up your states laws and don't be afraid to ask law enforcement they will be a...

Okay so quick follow up question I know the block would not need to be 48k but would it need to be 24k or 12k? And what about the 2nd block?

Hey Tim where did you get that picture it has some cool mods

The bar and chain oil can be bought by the gallon and I was told it has a little phosphoric acid in it that will convert rust into a protective coating.

You can get the stock civilian dual tank setup but the switch was known to have problems. I will be using a valve off a 5 ton tractor with a original switch for just switching between the senders.

Have you heard of spraying bar and chain oil all over it? Know some folks up north that swear by it.

Sorry bud but every 2000 F350 4x4 had a 5" spacer on a standard D60 and they haven't had a problem with the spacers coming off but they do tend to get stuck and not want to come off. And to others who say spacers are illegal, then how did ford get away with it?

Welcome from Mississippi and Trailboss that's got to be sand at the beach!

Check to see if the head is flat, most I have checked needed some work.

Yeah Zev, in is the override position, out is for normal operation with the switch. Matt check just above the switch there is a manual kill valve, make sure it is tilting forward all the way about 45° not inline with the fuel line or to the rear, which is the off position.

Those spacers are good for all 4 places on the truck, on my 1028 I don't need them for the rear but you might need them for the 1010 haven't gotten around to mounting the hmmwv wheels on my 1010 yet but I do need spacers on my 1031/1028 maintenance truck or they rub on the body. There are a lot...

JPG I love that you are asking the right questions. I would leave the gears in the axles and go for a 700r4 transmission that is built by a national transmission retailer to be used in a 4x4 truck with that diesel engine, they were available stock in the civilian trucks and the aftermarket has...

You are correct in theory but are not seeing the connection on the buss bar correctly, it isn't just the stud that takes the load. Don't run the slave plugs off of the buss bar, that is extra connections that are not needed run them directly to the batteries. With a military terminal on a post...

Ask Gerald he can hook you up.

I have driven and owned most of the trucks that everyone has tossed out and they are good selections, but dollar for dollar the most truck for the money that fits her needs is still a refurbished M1010. A Uni MOG is a great money is no object vehicle and would be top of my list if I could afford...

Sorry bud you need to check with any winch manufacturer and you will find you have that backwards they are rated by the first layer which is the first layer wound on the drum.