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Is the fsov pulling up all the way?

The grey stuff from Permatex works good

Maybe it was a NASCAR truck

I think the deuce will be more forgiving on the short hop and charging issue, no control box dealio, they are just a normal electrical system with no electronic features. I miss my truck, but don't at the same time.

248 in lb, or 20 ft lb. start in the middle of the pan rail and work your way out. There are 4 places to use a silicone based adhesive, NOT SILICONE, regular silicone will be attacked by the acids in the oil over time and will leak. The front gear housing and the rear seal carrier are part of...

Yes, idling will cause carbon packing, it still does and it is a big issue now. This condition polishes liners, meaning, it removes the cross hatch and causes oil consumption. IIRC, these could have no valve seals, depending on how early the engine is, they did no at first, so oil migration down...

A little heat in the engine before taking off is good, but remember, YOU aren't using these engines as they were designed to be used. In "normal" temps...65-80 degrees, start the pig, let it idle a bit 'till o/p is stable and drive out of your driveway normally, cold weather is different, I...

14L is a totally different fuel system, it has no pressurizing valve like the ones in the Bosch systems. Cummins is proud of that part, $100 + dollars! You guys need to find a Bosch fuel shop and buy from them, they are only 35 bucks there.

Sorry it took a bit, but here are the resistance specs and what wire is what chart....

Here is one with the spec for pull in length of the plunger, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?159105-M939-Does-not-Idle

I posted all the diagrams in another post, let me see if I can find them.....

For me, not so hard, I have tools for it. For you, you will have a helluva time trying to get the spline off the crank. After that is off, easy as a briggs engine to overhaul. Buying a reman from the likes of NAPA, ReCon, local component remanufacturer is your best option.

:popcorn:

IIRC, there is a plug to install in the head or block that forces coolant flow through the trans cooler in closed stat operation.

First, remove the throttle linkage from the arm on the fuel pump, leave the return springs on the arm, and start it. Let it run to see if the issue is still there. If not, problem solved, you need to adjust the linkage. If it's still there it is time for a pump. The most common cause for this...

There is a specified measurement of travel for the FSOV when it is in the run position....leme see if I can find it Here they are. These are for A and P pumps with RQVK governors. IIRC, this is what the engines came with. If you have the MW pump, let me know and I can find that too

Some noises are normal, listen hard enough and you can hear your mama calling you fat lady sings. If it has good oil pressure and no plumes of smoke out of the oil filler or blow by tube and not hammering from the bottom, run it

No check valve there. That is injector return. a 6mm banjo bolt, no screen, no check valve. There are two check valves in the lift pump and 1 at the galley return at the pump, this is the one that makes the low pressure in the pump.

Stay away from a dc only refrig. The batteries will be sucked dry.

No, because of the design and installation of the liner and head gasket design. I should correct myself though. The old style gaskets, metal with neoprene grommets around one of the center head bolts and white water passage grommets will not put compression into the cooling system. The newer...