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Also I would recommend skipping a factory gm turbo and using an hx35, hx40 or super 60 from quadstar. Use all the other turbo stuff from the 6.5 (is do an aftermarket upper intake manifold as well)

I moved both batteries up front off the front battery mount (smaller batts) and added an auxiliary fuse box under the dash but I’ve been thinking lately it needs to be under the hood on the drivers fender next to my winch controller.

These look like quality pieces but also the same amount of work will allow you to bolt into a universal winch plate in the same location with the same holes drilled. Downside is it’s only bolted in on the top (or bottom) of the frame rails but a few bucks for some extra metal to tie in to the...

That would be my guess but I’ve been around enough internally wastegated turbos and there’s plenty of aftermarket downpipe companies that just use a flat plate. We’ve got a pretty mundane engine setup so I doubt it makes a bit of difference. here’s my spare hx35w and how far the wastegate opens...

a factory Hx35w downpipe flange is just flat in that area FYI.

6.5 stuff is much better than the slow spooling banks turbo setup. The benefit of the banks kit is it’s a kit that just bolts on but that’s about it.

That’s asinine.

Lol $3k for a trans rebuild.

Don’t quote me on this but I’m pretty sure the drivers manifold doesn’t quite clear the square body frame. I used my 6.2 drivers.

Ah I see, my 6.2 did not have that divider at all. I have a non egr 6.5 lower intake on mine now.

I posted up those two designs because they’re simpler than yours, unsure why you made a box before attaching the tube to the turbo on, that’s all.

That looks good, I decided the $160 was worth buying over spending my time making one so ended up with a quadstar intake. I’m running an hx35w and it’s been great.

There’s simpler upper intake designs out there.

I’m not sure I see a benefit to putting a temp sensor on the radiator side of the t stat unless I’m not seeing that right.

I forgot you could add the sensor to the head but you’d have to either ditch the dummy light sensor or the glow plug card sensor or make a T fitting to house both.

It’s an hx35 off of a 12v dodge, they’re plentiful and cheap.

You can buy any universal temp gauge from the auto parts store or summit. It’s not ideal but there is a plug at the water pump that you can easily use to mount the sending unit. The ideal solution would be to mount it behind the thermostat housing either with an hmmwv crossover or I’ve seen...

Well I guess I’ll have to shave the frame a touch and get that downpipe in there finally! also interesting how you did the rear over the axle, I’ve got the same shock inboard setup going on and it looked like a tight squeeze. Ditching the bump stop brackets I guess fixes that space issue.

That’s a tight squeeze! I bought a diamond eye turbo back and gave up for now I trying to fit the downpipe inside the frame and just put on my external frame exhaust. I was really trying not to trim the frame at all but it has that bump out right where the downpipe fits. The front drive shaft...

Agreed, mine has been turbo for 7+ years with zero issue.