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Do you currently have a stock one? There were two types. A spring one and a vacuum one. Both can be turned into an adjustable one.
On my spring one I just removed the end cover and threaded the stock rod. Then I used a lock nut and washer to apply more pressure to the stock spring.
The he...
I was referring to the oil cooler, not trans cooler. I mentioned above that I'm running the same b&m trans cooler as what was posted.
i edited my second post to not confuse anybody.
I think the stock oil cooler is sufficient. Also my truck rarely gets higher than 180 for coolant temp. Trans temps have gotten over 200 but that's at high elevation crawling.
He stated in his first post that he ordered a u bolt flip kit. I didn't say anything about your reading ability, you seem to lack comprehension of what you've read. So instead of the passive aggressive threats towards me, how about you take this as a lesson in humility and you try reading...
he asked about spring eye bolts specifically. Reading comprehension not your thing?
an SAE grade 8 bolt is an SAE grade 8 bolt and has a minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi for a 9/16 bolt. I think he'll be ok.
You may pay a bit more per bolt locally but will save on shipping (lmc does...
Are we talking about the bolts holding the leafs to the spring perches? Why not just head to a hardware store and match it up with some grade 8 hardware? I can't recall if they're 9/16 or 1/2".
I run that same B&M kit as dieselbob and it keeps my temps nice and low as long as there's airflow but offroad on trail it doesn't do as much so I plan on adding a fan over mine.
The passenger side cooler in the radiator is for oil
Hard to say, depends on if your rears have sagged at all. The front openings are bigger than the rears so the rear would need to be slightly taller to look level
I think you're on the right tract.
Happen to fill up recently? I've certainly gotten bad diesel before (not in my cucv) and was a similar situation. A refill and some emergency diesel additive fixed it.
Check out these spring rates. This is why people who actually go offroad tend to stay away from companies like rancho, rough country, etc
http://ck5.com/forums/resources/spring-rate-table.14/
You've been jumping to conclusions with every post. He never once stated he was turning up fuel or timing. He was looking for how to get it back to stock settings. Then you went off about chainsaws in some elaborate attempt to tell him he's a fool for putting oil in his fuel.
Maybe its...
So I went back and found where you said the tcase yoke is 0* and the diff yoke is .5*. That's fairly close to equal then assuming we're on the same page and you're following these measuring techniques. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index2.html
if that's true then just a...
Not really for the m1009. The m1008/28 got all the cool stuff. I think there may be 1 more lead over a comparable civvy unit but that may be just because of the diesel, or completely false lol
I'd give offroad designs a call and talk with them. They'll be able to get you all squared away.
Also maybe something that was missed, a shackle flip is pushing the rear of the springs downwards so it'll bring the angle of the pinion up compared to your current spring lift.
A shackle flip will give you the best and easiest lift while also helping with flex. I went with a zero lift shackle flip from totally naked auto (local guy to me) and 6" long shackles from diy4x.
Also check this place out for custom drive shafts since it sounds like you can't find a...
Before I went to a d60/14b, I had 2* shims for my 2" lift. My yoke was further out than originally but still had plenty left in the housing.
I cant speak for a 4" lift because I've never owned one and haven't felt a need to go higher than 2". I like low center of gravity and being able to park...
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