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I found that the ferrules (standard plumbing ferrules) were too wide to allow the stock compression nut to grab the first threads. I had to run the ferrules over the grinder a bit to get the compression nut on. Worked ok and no leaks.

Open flame intake heaters used to be the state of technology at the time. I am not too happy about the different ways that they can fail and dump fuel into locations it should not go; they can also be used improperly. The military itself decided to move to metered dose ether start assist and...

Well, ya know, you seem to be really busy :shrugs: But, we would not know, because nopics

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59718-Cargo-Cover-Stave-Measurement www.google.com Type "cargo cover bows measurements" site:steelsoldiers.com Many good results....

A Deuce without traces of weeping seals and some oil underneath looks so un-Deuce-like! :grin: I hope that problem will recitfy itself, once you drive it. Great job!

If your master cylinder cap is leaking, make sure you have the flat plastic washer on the cap that seals it. If that is missing, a flat washer for a 1 1/4 (I think; better measure) sewer trap from your home hardware store is an almost exact fit. The cap needs to seal in order for the pressure...

The UK built trannys are identical to the US built ones. They pop up in trucks once in a while, it appears. The 3053 vs. 3053A discussion http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?5535-Spicer-3053-Transmission did not come up with any conclusive differences between the two, nor did this one...

We need updated pictures!

LDS engines are not ultra rare, but they are desirable. Unfortunately, you know the true cost of a rebuild only after the rebuild and successful test run where nothing leaked, smoked, knocked, screeched, caught fire or grenaded. Maybe all your engine needs is a head gasket set and planed heads...

For what it is worth, I do like the concept of your bumper improvement. Somehow it needs something on top...such as a bull bar. I am getting carried away. If the boxes on the sides would provide useful storage space (i.e for recovery straps, chains or the snatch block no one knows where to put)...

I'd say! Also a lot can go wrong if you do not pay attention to each step. I can see why they did not bother and just side-loaded, despite being hard on the trailer.

This is a good looking rig. How do the mechanics of the trailer work, compared to modern designs (size and capacity aside)?

Well, clearly, you need to paint the chequered lid in OD green, then it will work better. Also, cut the intake hose at a sharp angle (so it cannot become blocked when it rests in the angle between the jar bottom and the wall).

Good score. Re-fitting a winch won't be too demanding - all the expensive parts are still there! Keep us posted with photo updates!

Did the rigs see service in Europe (Germany)? It could be a unit modification - maybe their mechanics saw the setup on German trucks and how well it worked in the winter and decided to give it a go?

:popcorn:It is always educational to follow a troubleshooting thread

How is the restauration coming along?

The only thing the t-stat does is keeping the circuit through the rad mostly closed when the engine is cold. So, running without the t-stat is not an issue; under normal circumstances the truck would run cool (cooling system running at maximum cooling capacity all the time). People drive them...

I can assure you that the MAN 40.440 is doing just fine with this trailer (a "true" trailer, not a semi trailer with dolly. The 8 axle trailer is manufactured by Goldhofer). A short clip with a better view from the rear is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9r72-oRj_A

Revival of an old thread..I wonder if russ ever finished the war pig?