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That thing has been for sale on eBay forever. I think it looks sweet on the outside but the inside is just terrible.

Mine is gets water in it from various areas depending on the angle of rain :cry: My passenger foot vent leaks sometimes, the corners of my top all leak and my tailgate window leaks. Weatherstripping is so expensive and seems to be a gamble on fitment with most. 1aauto seems to be the cheapest...

I measured it this morning and the drivers side was about 7 1/2" and the passenger side about 7 1/4". So looks like I'm a good 1- 1 1/2" saggy up front.

I've read not so great things about re arching springs, especially if they see off road use.

The springs are indeed a negative arc design, my question is how much though. The shocks seem fine. No excessive bounce, ends look fine.

Looks like the forum has been reverted back a few hours. No biggie. I got your links via email. Eventually I want my blazer to be similar to that suburban low buck build. Just don't quite have that kind of cash to dump on it right now. I'd probably just do the front springs and blocks in the...

I don't know what happened but it looks like a few posts disappeared. :confused: Anyways, ORD seems to be the place for parts. Do I want the tuff country EZ springs or the HD springs? They make mention of the HD's for heavy front ends but not sure if just the 6.2 will be enough weight to...

I don't want anything more than 2-2.5". Honesty if I could get stock replacements for a decent price I'd get those but when they're nearly the price of decent lift springs its hard to go the stock route.

How far away should the anchor plate be from the bump stop?

Ball joints and tie rods are all tight and boots still look new (can't be too old). No wheel bearing play. I've replaced all the bushings front and rear with energy suspension ones since they were all dry rotted.

The truck drive perfectly fine on anything smooth, even at highway speeds. No wandering, shaking or pulling. When I hit any sort of bumps it feels like death.

Hey All, Ive been slowly chasing a fix for my m1009's jarring feeling over bumps and had a quick question about my front springs and if they're too arched or not. I've searched but haven't come to any definitive answers as too how much (or how little arc) they should have. I know they're reverse...

Awesome! Thanks everyone for all the help.

Ah ok, much different than what I've got. Mine just has a slight bend at the end and is just a nub and there was a hole in the wood it would pop into. So does that telescope? I think I just need to hit up a junk yard and find a k5 to pillage.

Would you mind taking a picture of the bracket behind the seat belt on the floor and measure te length of the prop?

Any chance someone could take a picture of one for me? Maybe I could just replicate something similar or at least have a picture to reference when trying to find one from someone.

And that just props anywhere on the floor? There was a cut out in the wood on the arctic kit over those bolts next to the wheel well. Like I stated I've got one from the arctic kit but I assume its a different length than stock.

I've got a prop rod from the arctic kit but I assume its different since its a different part number. What does the prop rod prop up to? Is there a bracket on the floor near the seat belt mount? Could you measure the length of the seat prop for me?

I purchased an m1009 a few months ago that originally had an arctic kit at one point (the under hood heaters were long gone) and I ended up removing the rotten wood from the rear cargo area. The rear seat had spacers under the mounting pads and for the rear locking mechanism. My question is...

I had the same problem with mine except with the radio tray in back I highly doubt my seat had ever been flipped forward. I ended up having to pry the lever with a pry bar (after removing the radio tray of course) and it finally released. Needless to say lots of rust cleanup ensued and now the...