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A simple potential cause I overlooked. There has to be more to the story than the non operational hydraulics in the clutch system, or the trans couldn't be shifted with the engine running.

Welcome to the madness, John. As far as your clutch issue(s) go, the only way I can explain what's happening is that there's no mechanical connection between the flywheel and transmission. Or, your shifter isn't connected to the forks. Getting the master and slave to work will likely be the easy...

Speaking of those switches for the tools; A while back I removed both (neither light or tool would move) switches and sprayed some JB-80 into them best I could, wiring still attached. Main problem, I think, was that mine were mounted with the contacts facing up, making the metal body a tub to...

I don't think "safe" and "FLU" can be used in the same sentence. Even if the dumb clutch switch is still operational. But that's one thing I like about them; It requires a bit of thinking to operate one.

In all fairness, if the loader isn't working correctly (like on my original SEE), lifting the front with it may not be possible. One of these days I'll follow through on the tips peakbagger gave me on the loader hydraulics. The restrictor valves are in different circuits between my two loaders...

I think that the clutch's safety switch would be the least of my worries if someone unfamiliar with a SEE was to operate one. The people at OSHA must have nightmares about these things.

Interesting thing about the SEE, you say. Interesting indeed. The outriggers on my two SEEs (all four, in other words) are identical. Unless someone swapped one in from a different model on yours, they should be the same, too. Yes, the backhoes are offset by about five inches, which can be a bit...

Are you sure? Just out of curiosity, why do you want that switch to be operational? I'm about to remove one that doesn't always make contact, making me have to push it in by hand. It may be misadjusted, or have some corrosion that makes it unreliable, but either way I haven't thought of a good...

Well, the outriggers can obviously only lift a SEE so far, but the backhoe is good for lifting the rear end several feet off the ground. The loader would then have to provide balance. Not level? The backhoe would have to be swung to the side accordingly. To get the front up, as mentioned...

That doesn't sound like a description of M1008 axles, but rather 1028s only. Either way, if the part number for a Detroit Locker is the same for a 70/70HD/80, which is easy enough to check, then they'll fit all three. But do you really want a Detroit in a relatively light and short vehicle that...

Nominal size of the Pitbulls is 39.5x16.50, and they look about the same as the Michelins in height, so a bit taller than I wanted. Haven't compared Static Loaded Radius, though, which is what really counts. But I do remember that the tread width was increased by about 45%, which helps immensely...

On a Suzuki Samurai, yes. For a vehicle that has lots of torque and can carry heavy loads, probably not. But with everything being bigger, so are the price tags for parts. And then there's the extra weight, which comes out of your total load carrying ability.

Congratulations, Mr. SEE! Is it too late to point out that you could've cooled various sections using one of those spray cans with nothing but air, for cleaning electronics and stuff? Nah, I'm sure you have warm clothes.

As I recall, the stock pintle hook setup is rated at a measly 600 lbs. That didn't keep me from using an M1009 to move Class 8 trailers with a con gear on the property (upwards of 20,000 lbs. combined weight). Later I installed a receiver, which necessitated removing the lateral bar stock...

Now I have garage envy. There was a time when I could fit trailers inside, too.

Alright, Bison, here's an idea for your snowblower situation. I have a very lightly used Paladin 72" 'blower for a low-flow Bobcat for sale. It will run fine on the SEES's rear hydraulics, and you could just strap it into the loader bucket (or bolt it in), run the hoses to the rear and go. The...

I'd start by pulling the diff cover, and brake drums, to find out what needs it may have. A rusted ring gear and/or pinion would cost a few bucks to replace, for example. Unless you're changing the ratio and installing a locking diff, anyway. Oh, and properly functioning Detroit would likely...

Depends largely on the amount and type of snow, I've found. The problem is that when the 'blower is driven off of the same engine that powers the SEE, throttling up to make the 'blower run more efficiently makes the already too fast SEE even faster. Then the 'blower really can't keep up with the...

Except for the ice chest, that all looks like standard fare SEE stuff, Ahab.

Ah, the plot thickens. Von said to simply use a heat gun then shove the hose in place. I'm guessing that the tool is what Couch showed a photo of. Maybe my somewhat similar brake tubing bender could be used in a pinch (no pun intended).