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Very politely put.

Okay, found it. The ones I have are called Load Master. Started out with a 0-1,000 unit, later got one that goes to 2,000 lbs. They're easy to use, and useful for weighing all kinds of stuff. Since I've largely switched over to gooseneck trailers, these days they're not used as often as the...

In the hunt for air leaks in the fuel line, noticed that the hose coming out of the fuel shut off valve looked a bit wet. Also, the hose wasn't coming out in line with the valve. Well, when the ferrule looks like this it was understandable that it leaked a bit, and that the hose looked crooked...

Thanks. It's great fun to drive, especially bob tailing, as it keeps up with many cars. Even at about 36,000 lbs. as pictured above, it can reel in some cars on long steep grades. Having an 18-speed helps a lot there. Usually my Jeep goes in the rear of the living quarters trailer, but when I...

A misunderstanding, corelokt, I knew that you meant tandem axle trailers. But whether the trailer is a single, tandem, or tridem is largely irrelevant. It's what those axles and tires are rated to carry that counts, just like with your M1008. I'm guessing that the more you learn about hauling...

If you think that running hot shot will pay the bills you're even more of an optimist than I am. Go grab a CDL handbook at your local DMV. If reading that doesn't discourage you (not that you seem to want a CDL) you could always take your chances and run illegally. Probably wouldn't earn you...

Hey, corelokt, for a minute I thought you were describing me there. I think the main difference here is that I've been there, done that. Yes, even have a CDL still, even though I never have driven commercially. Got the doubles/triples endorsement so I could make driving (especially backing up)...

You crack me up, corelokt. Not knowing the tongue weights of the trailers you intend to pull, I still don't have a clue how much beef you will need at the rear axle. I have a B&W fifth wheel still in the box, by the way, should you happen to drive by here. Realized that I rather convert the...

Ah, that sounds so familiar (not that I had a Syclone, those were neat). And it's partially why I got into British cars for a while...to find out if the electrons flowing the opposite direction would help matters any.

That sounds a lot like what prompted me to create the "M1007.2", as seen on a different thread, which ultimately made you start this thread. Both vehicles meant for towing, but probably entirely different things, and weights. Without knowing your projected tongue weights, it's hard to tell what...

Looks like a good unit, Rustyshackle. Just throw those plastic thingys away before you get tempted to use them.

Unless I missed it, you never said what the purpose of the dually setup was. Normally duals are used for added carrying capacity, and the other components sized accordingly, but I've seen dually equipped Blazers and Suburbans, so load isn't always the reason. In other words; Strong enough for what?

Rustyshackle, if/when you decide to install a cooler, do take a look at the kind that looks like a small radiator (rather than finned tubing). Those are quite a bit more efficient, and generally easier to install since they have flanges at the ends. Unless one considers plastic ties pushed...

If it was plugged, you most certainly pushed something in there. What I find interesting is that the area around the vent is the only place that isn't covered with some sort of fluid residue. Anyway, those vents are simply pressed in, as I recall.

Not if you want to run dually fenders. Then it'll look funky. Otherwise it'll just be stronger than a wider axle, if that matters to you.

Ah, that's good to know. I need to double check that connection on mine. Have used a good set of jumper cables to bypass the switch, but can't say with any certainty that it helped. And the switch does get warm...which could be from the trans. I'll have to give your newest description of the...

I would really like to be able to go slowly with the HMMH. It'd be most helpful when positioning the forklift for picking things up, but also when navigating through the aisle in the barn. It's easy enough to back out, using the mirrors, but going in is tricky when there are things within a...

Based on memory (which isn't my strong point, either) a complete, but maybe not running or well running, GM dually of the era can be bought for less than $1,800. It would contain all the parts needed, and then some, with the possible exception of a driveshaft if the donor is a 2WD or Crew Cab...

Well, realistically it wouldn't have to cost that much to get a dually axle, front spacers, wheels, and the correct brackets and springs for the rear. Fenders are available aftermarket, I believe, or could be salvaged from the same junkyard as the rest of the parts. Or, buy a non-runner and...