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....no typo/mistake, unless the price for the core returns ($100 -each-less) is a mistake, also!

I am posting this as I am walking outside to take out the speedo and tach from my truck. I am gonna SELL those! They are worth 200 bucks! Speedometer Tachometer Clock Gauge Repair Restoration This gauge set goes well with the $100.000 Deuce from eBay!

I really am just curious and hope that my question comes across as a question, and not as trying to be a wisecrack. When I looked at the marvellous copper plumbing you did for the brakes, I was asking myself if there was a particular reason why you would not substitute 2 (or 4) spring brake...

Generally, "fill to spill" is no longer recommended. The correct fill level is when you stick your finger into the oil fill hole and the level is one knuckle down from the fill hole. This avoids unnecessary leaks.

how to use the Daniels tool I have used cheapo crimpers in automotive applications forever, and never liked the results (so I solder a lot of my connections). I obtained a Daniels AF-8 crimper, as shown in the pics above, with turret. I cannot figure out how to use this thing correctly with...

I can only add to this from a driver's perspective, and even then only to the ambulance version. The 2.4 liter VW diesel is a good powerplant for the Pinz. It is basically the same engine found in 240 and 740 series Volvo diesels from the 1980' and the European VW LT transporters. It is an...

Have the same or a very similar issue. Truck has done that since I got it two years ago. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/45159-engine-top-front-oil-leak-question.html I decided to keep a head gasket set at home, research the head gasket job and keep driving the truck as long as everything...

Nice lights, but....the winch is kinda small...and are you sure, people can hear you with these tiny horns???

Good choice regarding having a recovery vehicle and obviously the tools. Good luck with getting the truck up and running.

Because in my winch, 90W makes puddles under the bumper. Thicker stuff stays in. I have read numerous accounts here of people re-sealing their winches, only to have them leak again shortly thereafter. My reasoning is that I want lubrication for the winch for the few times it actually gets used.

Answered in post above - thanks! I just pour stuff in until full....now I know. The usual...aerokroil or other rustbuster...tighten more before trying to loosen...gentle heat. Yes, I refer to the PTO shaft zerks. Cable lube...that may be a flame starter. Some people see cable lube just as a...

First off - commendation for asking. Many people just **assume** they can figure the winch out and do crazy things. You took the time to look and ask. Aside from what you find in the manual, I would - inspect the PTO visually from underneath (severe leaks? loose stuff?) - inspect the...

On the picture with the missing flame heater lines, also note that the rubber connector (bellow) that you see in the background on the intake is cracked.

The "thin-stacker" non-turbos are becoming somewhat rare. Most of them get turboed at some point. If you preserved one, it would be cool. I do not have one, so I can't tell you how they feel or compare. From what I see here, maost people agree that the smoke plume is more impressive than on...

I would ensure that I bleed in the proper sequence (master cylinder and airpack first, then starting at the right rear wheel) ensure that the brakes are properly adjusted (pedal travel is not a lot; a few brake shoes out of adjustment will eat up a lot of pedal travel) I would also check for...

I am glad you are ok and the incident happened in probably the best possible location (minus the curve). IIRC, the bolt heads that hold the brake drum to the hub have a hole drilled through them and are supposed to be secured with safety wire. This would prevent the bolts from backing out.

Is there a quick way to test the band brake with the winch mounted? Both for function and for binding? I run my winch according to the TM, but I do not recall any info on that.

Thanks - No, that's not the one. Useful info, though. It just bugs me that I know the post exists and I cannot find it....

I searched for a specific posting....and it is not steelandcanvas' post. There is a good writeup of a complete overhaul of the springer seat, shock and all...and I can't find it. About 2-3 years ago. I KNOW I read it!

Mine were leaking after proper install and, in contact with Jatonka, I toqued them up quite a bit over the recommended install torque and have not had issues since (almost 2 years).