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Knowing the gear ratio and the number of layers on the drum, one should be able to calculate the pulling capacity with a shear pin of a given shear strength.....
Gerhard probably has the formulas handy (=I won't bother digging for them). :-)
One or more snatch blocks is the best solution for...
Went back to the outrigger and pushed one side down into the "well". A wrecking bar and a wood block was all it took to get the rest past the hump. :-)
Now for the split ring........hints are welcomed.....
Do those wheels have the humps shown in image below?
510 lb wow! The mounted 16/70-20 tires on the xm757 only weigh 189 lb...
Hopefully, the radials will have softer sidewalls and make it easier to get the bead over the humps (referring to my project). BTW Daniel, the plan is to pick the...
The cylinder head temp would be all over the place, but would reflect how the engine is loaded and respond to changes much quicker (airflow blocked or something) IMHO. The oil temp is probably just fine, just asking, if it was me, I'd install a CHT sensor and gauge just to learn more about the...
Uploaded this a few weeks ago....
Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite
Mike (mangus), it would be nice to have a link to the PS Magazine articles in the "Resources" above....unless you plan on moving them to the new site, of course.
Which tire /wheel combination are you getting?
I'm having a bit of a problem mounting the 16/70-20 tire (bias ply), but don't have the proper tools yet.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/36252-cranetruck-tire-mounting.html
Perhaps because of the low aspect ratio combined with the bias ply...
Thanks Gerhart, I'll go over the procedure again and also see what difference proper tire irons may make.
The tire is very stiff, when standing up (without the wheel), the gap measures 14 inches outside to outside bead. On its side and me standing on it, it only deflects a few inches, so it's...
Go to your local NAPA and ask for air brake tubing, I believe you'll need the 3/8 O.D. It is black with nylon lining and perfect for this. Also get the brass inserts and ferrules and reuse the fittings already on you truck.
So I popped the split ring side back off to re-evaluate the job.
Used the compressor and it popped off after a short while. My previous efforts did some damage to a portion of the inside of the bead, so the procedure is obviously not good.....
Just check for fuel in the crankcase oil.
When it happened to me after many years of good service, the leak amounted to about a quart/1,000 highway miles. Much less will show up on your analysis report.
Micing the plunger probably won't tell the story, a scratch is hard to measure, but it is...
No rebuild kit available to my knowledge. Replace it with a good unit or by pass it as shown above. The unit without an FDC is a different early model IP and you can't just remove the FDC and install a cover plate in its place. The "stop block" and fuel delivery adj is different for that...
The plunger within the FDC is lapped to fit and micron size hard particles (rust) may score the surfaces and cause a leak of fuel, which will drain into the crankcase along with the lube oil from the IP.
This is a problem when the rust from the half century old fuel tank gets by the filters. The...
Yes, you'll find this explained a few times in the old threads.
Also, remember to turn down the fuel when doing so, or you'll have some very high EGTs and boost pressures (also explained in the old threads).
The IP without the FDC is an early model and not a rebuilt one.
Okay, I'll see about getting a tire bar. That's what this project is all about, learning. Appreciate the input guys!
I may also be a bit stinchy about using the tire slick
The hydraulic ram is nice, but if it isn't used right......don't like to see it stretch the sidewall so much.
When I pushed...
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