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Do a search with keywords like "fdc" or "turn" and you will get plenty of advice and images....

Maybe two buddies can help him get in or does it have to be a self operated thing?

Right, then again, the bead on the split ring side doesn't really have to be pushed over the "bump" as long as there is space to install the ring....

Well, got started anyway, couldn't get the bead over the "safety bump" (see other threads listed below), but the crane made the first stages of the mounting procedure relatively simple. I used the "tire slick" soap and it seemed to help, but evaporated quickly in the sun. Here are related...

EZ, where is the engine op temp sensor mounted?

Well, the flasher never sees any load other than the relay coil, so it should not get exposed to any overload or short in the light circuit.

Nice!...a couple of notes, the primary stock fuel filter/water separator is 40 microns, the 33405 is 12 microns and never inject ether unless the engine cranking....takes two people or an ether injection kit.

Ron, I don't find any backup lights in the TM for your truck, unless you are referring to the flood lights.... BTW, what is the wire # for backup lights, I have checked the wire table listings, perhaps I missed it? Edit: Found the wire number in a HMMWV tm...#467F

This may explain it better.

Getting there.....

:-) Motivation is hard to understand. It doesn't take a lot of energy to solder a few electronic components together and I still keep pushing it off....okay, I'll get on it right now....update later today..... Signing out.

Didn't think you cared much for bobbed deuces, Kenny.

Guys, I'm working on these. Thanks for your patience, I have trouble getting motivated these days and can remember when I'd get this kind of thing done in 24 hrs...like several decades ago.... Image shows where I am today, a batch with light sensors installed....

Got a backup light from Austin Weber the other day and finished the installation yesterday. The 12 volt bulbs, #1073 and #93 were replaced with #1683 and #1691 respectively. Power is supplied by the #21, service tail light wire. (The license plate is for testing purposes only)

Is the timing where it's supposed to be? Is the fuel shut-off lever working smoothly?

Good, yes you can rotate the "plunger" and with some penetrating oil it should loosen up. Joel, yours was mailed yesterday, it's a take-out, so you'll need to clean it up a bit...

If you do long distance driving, the more the better. Every gauge will increase you confidence and help prevent a breakdown on some lonely road somewhere. You'd feel like you were taking a chance driving if you didn't have an engine op temp or oil pressure gauge, right? Well the same goes for...

The CX-13089 will not fit the power input of the MX unit, as pointed out above, the male screw requirement is the problem. Edit: Added image. The cable itself is also rated for 50 amp service to match the MX-7777...

The male center screw is the "problem".

Yeah, that's not the right cable. The one you want, from batteries to the MX unit, is indeed hard to locate. Did you ask CARNAC here on the forum....?