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are you truly isolating the issue to the switch? 75% of the time, it’s the switch, but the TDM and cadillac valve solenoid make up the remainder… What happens when the tdm is unplugged?

you can buy rebuild kits from HPG or MAC motors

long before dual voltage, I ran off rear battery,like anything electrical, you have to engineer the load, so a cigarette lighter adapter, USB charger, backup cam…none of these items draw enough amps to create issues, the key is, don’t have constant power draws, you need either the ability to...

this topic just gets beat into submission it seems weekly…. the hmmwv like all modern tactical vehicles use both 12 and 24 component’s , pulling 12v to feed those components is how they were designed, work, the 14v tap coming off the regulator was specifically designed to prevent An imbalance...

Never tap the front battery…the rear battery is the correct battery to pull 12v from.

That seal is not a high failure rate seal, id be concerned something else caused the failure, on the rear diff, have you checked the fluid level? I just got a customer truck in that was drained of ALL fluids and the rear diff locking up while being towed. tcase, that’s your signal generator for...

Possibly for Hell Fire missles on a flightline

The enclosures for the TCM sell for $500, let alone the actual TCM…this seller has tested the item for sale, 99% of others are just unknown takeouts.

if that wait light goes past it’s 9 seconds? You are grenading you’re glow plugs… Didn’t you call my shop a few weeks ago?

so if I read this correctly, the wait lamp does NOT extinguish after 9 seconds? Also….you haven't said just what start box you have, if it new or the original in the truck or you have a known good “EESS” box installed.

Yes….

Sounds like the armature is sticking inside the pump, ive seen similar….I strongly recommend not driving it till the pump is replaced.

you don’t know what it’s worth? how bout, what you paid for it? That what it’s worth…LOL

Warped rotor loose brake components

The nut plate is reachable on the passenger side by just unscrewing the fuel filler plastic. On the driver side just reach up into the wheel well. The hard striker vs wire striker is that way on all Hmmwv’s.

glow plugs swell, even the so called “non-swell” Even some splatter the size of a grain of sand will cause a plug to fight to come out. Like I said, the issue is the the bullet tip type GP, and may I remind you…you’re scenario is one that lends you’re thought process as if the truck will not run...

H1 is 12v and it’s not uncommon to burn up glow plugs over time…so, no…this will not stop glow plugs from eventually failing. The H1 uses AC60g’s but unfortunately uses a spade tip, as far as I know, there is no 12v bullet type GP. You can use 12v on a regular Hmmwv glow plug.

If you use crap rivets they will, you want to use cherry rivets, they don’t leak, those screws will loosen because the roof will flex, especially off road, you are better off welding it. You do realize the entire truck is assembled with rivets right?

I would use rivets….

the engine doesn’t crank, nothing to do with a dead spot in the starter, it’s as if the truck is being started in gear or like a bad neutral start switch. if you leave the key in “start” and push the brake pedal, you hear a click, like activating a switch of some sort, the engine won’t start...