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I saw that too. Yep, this dummy removed the nut! It doesn't pull of easily and the IP flange is tapered. First puller broke and the second puller bent. If I could stop the IP from rotating I might have better luck but this thing not letting go.

Correct - I left it in truck to steady the pump while I pulled the boss. Now, the pump is out of the truck - but the boss is on there. I have tried heat, Ive broken the (first) puller. Is there a place to grab the shaft with a wrench or ? to lock the pump while removing the pulley...

I am trying to get injection pump off truck. I think I have everything undone - but the injection pump pulley boss has to come off. I have a (harmonic balancer) puller firmly attached to the boss with a screwdriver jammed in behind the puller to keep the pump from turning but I think it is...

Yeah - I get it. Its just that I am supposed to see ~5 PSI at the tank? I see 2PSI- ish. I am getting good flow back from the HH into the tank but low pressure. I am supposed to see ~5 PSI at the secondary filter? It doesn't even register on the gauge. If I open the bleed on the canister...

I have decided to load the parts cannon again. Im throwing another NOS injection pump at it. its stupid expensive but this has gone on too long. I just clicked Buy It Now. Should have it in a week or so. sigh

No, the seat wouldn't come out. I have a spare parts HH and tried to remove the seat with a screwdirver and it wouldn't come out of that one either. There are slots in it so it can spin - but it wouldn't come out. It looked prettty clean in there when I put my boroscope in to peek...

Very possibly this. The crap in the tank was the worst Ive ever seen. However, the tank has been cleaned pretty well and the pump is now a NOS unit. If the lines are blocked with crud, wouldn't I see HIGHER pressure at the tank? I'm only seeing ~2-3 PSI

No improvement. *sometimes * the truck will hard start immeiately after killing it. Still needs starting fluid to start. I am wondering why I see such low pressure at the lift pump (~2-3 PSI) and at the secondary filters (0 - .5 PSI) with the engine off and pump running.

I now see @Floridianson comment on how to remove the seat with screwdriver. I will see if I can get it out.

Mayyybe there is some crud in there after all. I am now seeing ~3PSI (up from 2) at the tank but still basically zero at the secondary filter. I can now inmmediately restart the truck with no starting fluid. Its a hard start and probably wont start when cold - BUT it restarted.

I replaced the seal on the center bolt and the seal in the canister. I can check again. I’ve pulled it twice. Three times a party!

Pulled the 12 point Doo-dad at the HH. no real crud in there.

Is there a diagram ow what is under the 12 point bolt? Spring shot out which I was ready for - but not sure if anything else escaped..

I'm getting the welder out. Going to make a 3/8" drive 7/16" 12 point socket.

I have a 12 point that fits great. So great Ive killed the first ratchet. I'll hit it with my bigger purse.

I have eyeballed this before... it seemd to be torqued to eleventy billion foot lbs. Wasn't sure it came out with a socket or wasn't removable or what... I'll hit it with my purse I guess?

The little doo-dad on the HH that points towards the drivers door? Is it just held in with 12 point socket?

On the side of the HH? It has also has return from injector and return to tank? it Is clean and apparently functioning properly. Soaked in acetone overnight and verified crud free. There is a pinhole inside this one which apparently is by design to bleed air back to the tank? I have even...

I replaced with NOS injector and re-tested. Still will not build pressure and pop without starting fluid. then, runs fine.

I have pulled the injectors and checked the pattern. They will not pop until I spray it with starting fluid. I also tried with a NOS injector and same result.