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In the case of the ground for the aux relay look in the wire bundle adjacent to the starter. They put in a plug on that ground lead to connect to a thermal sw in the forward end of the starter motor. Stops cranking when motor overheats… If you have one it will be plugged into a receptical on...

The oil returns thru its connection to the timing case where he drive gear is located. All compressors, like engines pass a certain amount of oil, a clogged intake/kinked hose can make this worse by deepening the vacuum during the intake stroke. What are you considering "oil contamination"...

Was this the pic you are referring to?

Disconnect the 2 small terminals at the aux start solenoid. One wire should have a short circuit/low resistance path to ground. The other wire should have 24V from K1 pin 87 when K1 energizes…

give us a shout when you get out to Olympic National Park in WA👍

Only seeing 1.8 v 30-87 but seeing 24v30-gnd at K1 does indicate a poor path to gnd thru the aux start relay on the frame…

Yep, plugging them in and out is fine and a valid coil function test. if k1 is energizing, beyond testing its contacts, all the rest of the in cab start circuitry is probably OK. You could rule out its contacts with a test jumper pin 30-87, which should crank the starter… K1 sends 24v down to...

I will have to look for it when I get home. the one where I am holding the connector with the arrows to the pins? And What General said about the sound under the dash at shutdown, fan control solenoid...

Ok, for a 98 with WTEC 3, when you turn on the ign sw, K11, K24 and K26 in the panel must energize. K11 and 24 are controlled by the oil pressure sw, so you must also get an oil idiot light. K26 is the neutral start relay controlled by the trans controller. K24 and K26 provide the path for...

Yep, the display does blackout:) i seem to recall helping with a problem like this…

Thats exactly what they did. The A0 specced 4 different type relays, 12-24, 4 or 5 pin. Using the resistors on the 24v control circuits they can spec one type relay 12v 5 pin…

Or crap in the fuel supply system pumped into the tank…

Almost looks like the bend angle is the worst/aligned with the fore axis when the cab is raised. what does the angle look like when the cab is lowered. there is a good view with the grill removed when lowered. yea the long slot is to allow cab suspension travel, but the control should be in...

yes it does...

Your cab is bent!

The vent they are probably referring to is over on the second fuel filter boss, large hex plug up on top. on a non return system like on my tractor you would need a vent to purge air. On our looped/return system, they are designed to self purge, so it is just as easy to simply pump any air...

Because of the crane arch folding back over itself to cradle the tire, it kind of limits the size of the actuator, unless you really lengthen the structure to move the base attach point. This would have the advantage of an actuator with a longer stroke with the attach point farther up/out on...

Yep, would be very interesting, but considering the 5 solid = fatal fault coming from the manufacturer does not indicate this is possible… but they are in the business of selling modules:)

What General said, they should have used the word drain. You open the drain and use the pump to pump out the water/fuel sample from the bottom of the filter bowl. That is actually one way to confirm if your bypass flapper is sealing. If you open the bottom drain, nothing should happen except...

also check the K26 path to ground.