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Thanks for the info, guys. I've used the Wix 24770 base for replacing the primary filter on a Deuce with no problems. I'm just not sure whether the fuel flow rate is much higher on the NHC250 compared to the Deuce multifuel. Probably not that different?

My Deuce with the steel "riot" box & 1100s gets 7 mpg traveling at 55 mph, running on straight filtered wmo.

Would like to replace cartridge filter with spin-on. Anybody got suggestions for components/mounting? Does anybody know the flow rate required? Thanks for any tips!

Dipstick, I'm sure there are some who would disagree, but I don't think putting grease on the battery terminals is a good idea. We found that if a terminal got a "little" loose, it would get warm, & the grease would melt & work it's way between the terminal & post. Causing too much...

For the negative cable end or battery post to have melted, I believe there was a bad connection at that point. I saw it happen in VietNam. We even had a mold to restore the battery post.

I've had good luck using rust oleum "self etching" primer over old paint & light rust. I'ts harder to find around here but it works for me. In hot dry weather I let it dry at least 3-4 days. If it's humid better let it cure at least a week. On heavier rust I use their " rust reformer first...

I went ahead & put airpack in truck. Only had time for a.short drive, but brakes work great!

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For some reason I can't attach picture. Snap ring is about 1.75 diameter. O ring is about 1.5 diameter. Cup seal is about .75 diameter.

Got the rest of my air pack parts, but I have 3 items left! 1-Snap ring which I saw no use for. 2- O ring which some drawings show possibly installed on the shaft bushing & some don't. I left it out because my air pack didn't have one when I took it apart, & I really couldn't see what purpose it...

Yup, that's the compensator with seals. I sent the dealer pictures & TM pages. He is sending the missing parts ASAP. He looked through the kits he has on hand, and they all have the seals I'm missing included. When I originally opened the package, it was on a 2" deep tray, so I'm sure I didn't...

I'm talking about the brass compensator valve in the slave cylinder part of the airpack. It only has the one cup seal & felt "washer".

Working on my first airpack rebuild. TM says to replace cup seal & felt washer on compensator. Kit I got doesn't have the 1.5" OD cup seal, & the strip of felt is about 2.5" long, but the old one is 4". Dealer I got the kit from says it's the common kit for a "long" airpack, that he sells a lot...

I have 10' wide doors, and wish they were wider. Have to fold mirrors in to fit readily.

My trucks have the numbers on the insides of the cab doors and inside the toolbox door. Bmv doesn't care where the numbers are, just that they are in 3 places "as originally done by the military". But as there are differences in the way different units marked them, it's up to you to figure out...

Nice work!

Looks like a good simple setup! Will keep anyone from readily putting something in the tank, or syphoning fuel. Thanks!

Thanks, Triple C! There just isn't enough space near the steering column on mine. My 813 is apparently laid out differently than your 925. Protective control box, flasher, and a bunch of other stuff there. I 'll move things around if I need to in order to mount the valve & bottle. I'd still...

I bought a KATS ether kit for my M813. Can someone tell me where the ether bottle & valve are normally mounted? There's already so much stuff attached to the firewall on the driver's side, it looks like i may have to make some room on the passenger side. Moving the horns or something? Also...

I guess Fix-A-Flat might work, but kinda doubt it. It's really made to plug a puncture in the tread, where the sealer will be thrown by the centrifugal force while the tire is spinning. I've tried it on wheel barrow & lawn cart bead leaks, & it didn't help at all.