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Noticed something interesting today. After running the unit with the fluctuating oil pressure, when I shut it down, the oil pressure was -4 PSI. Hm.. maybe I’m dealing with a bad sensor.
I just picked one up that seems to be doing something similar in regards to oil pressure. Its a 2012 model with around 35 hours on it according to both the on screen and mechanical meters. All of the storage compartments are still sealed so this is one was never issued out before it was...
After a good bit of research the easiest thing for me was to buy one of the construction distro boxes. It has breakers and GFCI protection. I picked up an amazon return for cheap. The only problem was one of the spring legs was slightly bent. A 5 minute fix to make it just like new and its now...
I've also given up on the "factory" line. It lasts at best a few years then starts leaking. I'm using the 1/8" Gates fuel line on the return and 1/4" Gates fuel line on the supply.
When I was watching the video I thought the phase voltages were off more than I had seen on other machines. I’ve not seen more than 1 or 2 volts difference on these smaller machines. That was on the 80x series. On the few 10xx series machines I’ve run, they have all been spot on.
I’d recommend...
I have the feeling you had a few shorted windings on the stator that was causing the voltage imbalance. loading it up to the hilt just caused the damage to progress to what you ended up with.
hope you can find a stator that isn’t ridiculously priced.
Got a new belt installed. The "metric" version of the belt wasn't available but the imperial version was available at O'Rileys. The number I bought was 3VX350 for $25. You can get the belts cheaper online but if you need one RIGHT NOW, you can go this route.
The job requires only a 10mm socket...
Today around 5pm a tree came down on the main road that took out the power line and damaged a couple of poles. Decided to pull out one of the MEP1030s to see how they work in real life. They worked great on the load bank.
about an hour in and the generstor kicked off. Looked at the screen and...
I have not done this on one of these generators but I have converted several S280 enclosures to twist lock. It required using a small square of metal since a twist lock is smaller than the military connectors. Overall a straight forward procedure. I expect the generators would be similar.
Sorry for the delay. I’ve been out of town for a big project. See if this link works.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/j0zzd8drg62yc737divow/5_10kw-Colored-DC-Sch_CMEC_SeparateLayers.pdf?rlkey=yfkztmzygd27o2cp39fj5xf73&dl=0
Go look at the label. It will clearly state what is acceptable. Below is the label from my heatpump.
Also for emergency, short term power needs, don't worry about running the set on 2 legs. Keep under 2/3rds rated load and do what you have to do. If you need generator power for the long term...
Take a look at the nameplate for your AC. It likely says 208/240.
I'd be surprised if its a problem.
As far as connecting, you'd use any two of the generator outputs (such as L1 and L2) for the two power phases then connect Neutral and Ground as normal.
The reason why I was suggesting you look at that section of code is its much easier to comply if the generator is mounted to the vehicle it powers. Putting the generator in the truck changes how you have to do things.
You'll need to look at NEC and local codes. It could be a good call to...
There is a pipe plug in the front housing of the engine. The end of the fuel rack is just under that plug with the levers and springs that do the governing. I would pull that plug and if you have a scope, look in there to see if everything is in place per the TM.
My money is on something wrong...
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