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I was thinking cab swap as well. But, the incredibly complex and about 15 piece Gasser throttle linkage seems to be all there and mounted correctly. I can’t see the tunnel covers to try and guess the age that way. Is the starter foot push or finger push? REO Gassers had foot push.

I found a 1984 skating party invitation up under the dash on one of mine. I posted a picture of it here 12 or more years ago. We figured out it was for a rink in Flint and was “installed“ during assembly. You never know.

Are you using a pressure bleeder, a helper pushing on the pedal or just opening the bleeder valves?

Water cooled air compressor is from the 1950’s. REO engine looks like mine: Does your cab have welded in door gussets?

It blows the brake fluid out while you are pushing the brakes or after you let off and the pedal is all the way back up? Have you adjusted all of the shoes? At least what the TM calls a minor adjustment.

Sounds like a fun adventure. It seems that the area of the country you will be traveling in has a member of this forum every other square mile. Or more. Enjoy.

That is the proper tool. I got mine out this morning so I can do a how to video once the rain stops. I was thinking about this thread.

I agree about the wrong combination of tow vehicle and trailer. A M1009 is a very unstable towing vehicle. How the tires look doesn’t matter. What was the build date on the tires? That is the most important thing to check on vehicles that have been sitting. However, a blown tire would not...

You have to hug the transfer case like you really like it, but it is doable.

Are you referring to the switch on the top of the transfer case that grounds the wire for the 4WD light when the transfer case is in 4wd? I changed mine out from under the truck.

The gear on the nose of the starter motor is often called “The Bendix” since I guess they made them at some point in time. They are relatively easy to change. There is a wire retaining clip that will drive you nuts removing and installing if you don’t have the special tool to do the job. have...

I do the entire procedure from underneath. I find it easier to unbolt the support bracket from the block with a 13 mm swivel joint socket. Then pull the two main starter to block bolts and set the starter on the font axle. Actually, balance the starter on the axle is a better description. Remove...

Here is a video I made about the starters, the support bracket and the bolts:

Get the support bracket and the proper new knurled starter bolts.

Power steering pump first. You can carefully use a pry bar or there is a special little adaptor that lets you grab the pump with a ratchet. then either alternator and then the other alternator.

Are you sure it is a tank and not a valve or fitting? If you find it is an actual leak a simple weld could seal it up in place. The system never sees more than 120 psi so it will hold ok.

Hawk brand brake pads on the front make a huge difference. 2000 or newer Chevy truck rear axle with disc rear brakes that have the top had drum parking brakes. Fabrication required.

Pictures would help. There is a bolt that goes into the side of the block between the power steering pump and the motor mount. They have a tendency to work loose and fall off. Without pictures that is my only suggestion.

With the Michelin XZL tires at their 80 psi max I flat towed once 180 miles round trip to the air show in Temple behind the M35 one year. No tire wear that I could determine. I just could only see the shadow of the M715 sometimes during the drive and didn’t like that so I either drove it or...

I would also suggest leaving your stock glow plug sensor there if it isn’t leaking. You or a future buyer might want to return things to stock glow plugs.