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Awesome. M715 for sure. Maybe RED depending on Colton’s schedule.

You are correct. As I wrote, 299 things to go. Pedal on or off does come before my thought. Which with the shoes out of adjustment has fluid getting pushed back by long traveling shoes getting pulled back by springs.

OK. That eliminates the airpack vent blowing brake fluid from your master cylinder out of the master cylinder. Just 299 more things to check and cross off…. Seriously. It reads like your brake fluid is rushing back into the master cylinder when you release the pedal with a lot of force. Now...

Do you still have the vent line hooked into the reservoir system? This happening with or without air really helps narrow things down.

Those hand cranks breaking bones supposedly is what motivated Kettering to develop the electric starter and the Dayton Elecitric Company (DELCO) to make them after a friends wife died of infection after breaking her arm trying to start a vehicle.

Way back when I only owned a single 6.2 in a m1009. I installed a rebuilt IP, got it started and then it wouldn’t turn off when I turned the key off. This was in 2011 and there was a thread similar to this one where blocking the return line will kill the engine was mentioned. I used a pair of...

You can remove the starter, remove the solenoid and then install the starter again. That will allow you to push the drive gear out by hand.

I have been trying to figure out a way to run and stop the engine without electricity as well. Keep the ideas coming.

As I wrote in my reply a few post up. The switches degrade over time and the best thing to do is add one of these kits: https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-91-chevy-gmc/cc-csb-heavy-duty-power-window-harness

If you switch from the direct drive starter to a reduction drive you have to get a new support bracket. Here is a video I did showing the different starters and brackets: I have success using a 1/4” drive socket set with about a 6” extension to loosen the wire holding nuts while the starter...

Since no M1009 came from the factory with power windows. Several questions: Did someone just swap in the mechanisms or entire doors? Have you ever lubricated the rollers inside the doors? How are they wired into the stock fuse panel? If entire doors were swapped and the wiring looks decent...

The trailer brake controller was added by someone. I suggest you start by tracing the wires for it. Fix or remove any faults you find. Once that is fixed or removed. The -20 TM troubleshooting section will walk you step by step what to check, test and fix in the proper order.

Stock is spring under the axle.

Yes, you are missing the clutch.

I was so caught in thinking about his 12 volt conversion that I didn’t mention the diamond shaped part. What the manual calls the Engine harness block. thanks for reminding me. Here is a video I made a few months ago about it:

A sudden off and then back on for no apparent reason almost always points to a loose or corroded connection. I suggest you start with removing each battery terminal, cleaning it and putting it back on. Do both ends of all 4 battery wires. Use sand paper, scuff pads, nail files or just a...

Nice progress. My forest service survivor had a very similar looking wiring mess. Since David linked in his video channel. I might as well do the same. Here is one of mine about the forest service hard top and some options: Don’t you just love having icicles on your truck after a wash?

I have been burned by that situation as well. I have also been burned the other way. Not running vehicle well below market value with what I think is a simple fix. Everything I see looking at the vehicle supports my preconceived theory. I don’t dare mention it or attempt the fix until the...

The multifuel engine will pull start with amazingly little effort or speed. Getting pulled in 1st low range will generate speeds up to around 5 mph when on the throttle and as long as you have a good sized flat spot. The truck will drag itself a stop pretty quickly. So, pull starting can be done...

Glad you got it right.