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The enclosure and relay area is super clean on this one... some missing paint on the engine, but otherwise real clean. So clearly this thing was somewhere nice, run like a creampuff. I hope it runs when Im done, instead of having to go back in because a valve is hung up with garbage.

By the looks of it, I assume a CO tasked it solely with charging a battery powered toothbrush its entire 500 run hours.

How's this pig look?? The cinder block pile is just what I got out of the manifold. The muffler is noticeably heavier than normal.

I have had exactly (1) 80X machine run away from me in all the years, and it was due to a spring failure that hooks to the governor assembly. Its definitely scary.

Are you 100% sure you assembled the pumps right? The barbs all the way to the tubes will not do that. Did you mess with the throttle stops so the machine can rev significantly higher than 1800 rpm? You should have been able to manually manipulate the fuel stop solenoid closed to cut off the fuel...

Well they could choose to ignore me like my teenagers do :ROFLMAO:

I don't want to volunteer them, but I think @kloppk and @cbisson have some knowledge about solar and gensets.

One thing to think about too... if they are already at the stage of utility shutdowns, whose to say they wont have some sort of restriction on the use of generators in private hands during these same times? Overreach is governments middle name.

If you are happy with the air cooled platform, which you clearly are, wait and find what you want. I would absolutely consider a non grid tie system as listed above, to supplement what you already have. Especially if you live in a fire prone area. Anything tied to the grid will be an issue in...

Well you can either find shorter J hooks, use a universal bolt down battery holder, or find some length of threaded rod and put a washer and lock nut on the side sticking out of the J hook cutout, and cut to length to use with the stock brackets at the back edge of the battery. Few ways to skin...

There are three basic manuals for the complete genset, ending -10, -24, and -24P. Do you know the use of each? Just this key detail will greatly aid in answering any question you might have... where to look first.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Siemens-Standby-Power-Interlock-Kit-PON-125-Amp-and-Below/5012957113 And I got that part number from a 'SIEMENS Product Expert' review comment found here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/questions/Siemens-Standby-Power-Interlock-Kit-125-Amp-and-Below-ECSBPK04/203262158/2

Well as soon as you get the good info share it. Happy to help find the best unit for that exact model.

With the condition you described with the original pump state, even if you freed the rack pin, you may still have a non functioning pump. They should be disassembled and soaked to get to the inside pumping mechanism.

You should be able to loosen the hold downs and rotate each barb and then tighten back down. You might need to undo the hard line attached to the top though, as it can provide downward pressure and inhibit this rotation. This range directly effects how much fuel you are allowing the pump to...

I assume the make and model is on the label on the door?

The pump arms that the larger fuel lines go into, should be as close to the push rod tubes as possible. It looks like they are closer to the cast iron hold downs than the tubes? Whats up with the fuel stop solenid? It looks broken and disassembled. Are you manually rotating the fuel rack for...

Photos speak volumes

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/universal-fuel-pump/p/delphi-universal-fuel-pump-24-volt/555670_0_0 appears to possibly work too.

If you want to go with one that I know works, without disturbing the aux assembly, this is what I see: https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/products/24v-electric-fuel-pump-kit