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They will not be direct replacements. Those are 24v units. You will have to get the correct sending units (if they exist. I have no idea. You may be able to adapt something).
Connectors are available from various vendors. Erik's is a good one.
http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushcoq10ms.html
Okay guys enough. This is the wrong thread for these types of discussions and this thread has been derailed
:derailed:
Back to our regularly scheduled programming.
I did not delete your thread. Another moderator did after you said you where done. In your Want Ad all I did was remind every one that the Want Ads Forum is not the proper forum for discussing the pros and cons of different MVs (and posting to the Want Ads is free)
You guys amaze me sometimes.
I just issued two infractions and deleted the two post of a couple of non-newbs that used the F-bomb after I just issued the warning.
DON'T USE THE F-BOMB (or any iteration of it) on this site.
Just to clarify, at the connector, the orange wire will be hot at all times and the black wire is the ground which is controlled by the relay.
The gray wire is the power feed for the VM and heater control lights.
**** Corrected incorrect intel from the wiring diagrams ****
There was one started for the HMMWVs and is now a sticky in that Forum.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?90657-LEO-FD-HMMWV-Check-List-amp-Part-Numbers
Was the gauge working before?
if the conversion is done properly the 24v which feeds the voltmeter (through the voltmeter relay) should now be feeding 12v to the meter plug.
Just a reminder to everyone on this site.
While most of us are not prudes, nor live under a rock, this site is a family friendly site (never know who is reading the posts). With that being said foul language is heavily frowned upon.
The F-bomb and any iteration of it (spelled incorrectly...
Also be aware that some locations will not allow vehicles to be driven off base. It is the Base Commander that sets this rule not the auction company.
Always good to verify before pickup.
Both light for both alternators have to work for the charging systems to work properly.
While running all the electrical needs are from the front battery only. Injector pump, lights, etc.
Fix the GEN1 problem and see what happens.
First thing to check is the heater fuse. It controls the GEN1...
If the valve covers are correct you have a General Engine Products (GEP) engine from AM General. They are a better design that the GM versions.
http://www.amgeneral.com/vehicles/gep/
They took over production around 2000 and supply the military with replacement engines.
Some places to check...