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exactly, the cheap switches aren’t designed to carry the type of amps required for continuous use…this is how EESS boxes get shorted out and thus blow glow plugs…

Tires Are a shelf life item, in fact…anything in the US Govt with any sort of rubber or petroleum products have a shelf life and surplused out after the expiration of the shelf life, you will notice that almost every item in the supply line that is bagged and tagged has a Shelf life date and...

that truck was never designed to not have a turret delete…so fabrication shop is you only possibility.

don’t use any 3 position switch, use a quality rated 2 pos switch and just switch the 11a run position as needed, this leaves you keeping the OEM start switch that rarely fail.

The basic M11XX roof is aluminum, on models with no turret such as M1165 C&C trucks, in the less than Frag 5 configuration, there is just a single panel, when truck is frag 5 on up, an aluminum overlay is added in 2 pieces, plus another panel over the first turret plug…An M1165A1 with “Dumbo”...

Cheap keyed switches are the easiest way to empty your wallet of an additional $1k in a turn or 2 of your ignition switch.

that’s not a turret hole delete, that’s the armor piece that goes on top of the turret delete plate…it’s part of the Frag roof overlay, it is aluminum

Don’t worry about minor blow by…that’s what the CDR valve is for.

There is always crank case pressure at the fording selector valve…it just directed to wet components when you dial it to Ford position

Fronts ? or fronts and rears? Essentially there are 2 part numbers, you need 3 of one part and 1 of the other.

Thats a rebuilt engine, they can be a bit of leakers, pressure wash the engine and get it all cleaned up. Turbo snow man seal is easy to replace..the exhaust down pipe is loose, needs to be tightened up At the turbo

not really…the front crossmembers are different for the GFD to mount, the fan shroud would not fit to mount the radiator with the current setup.

I do when I have them in stock

look at MSRP and maybe half that? It’s all about supply and demand…steering gears are in higher demand that GFD’s, I don’t get many requests for GFD’s. The steering gear is a different story, rumor is they are mfg discontinued and Sheppard is no longer doing rebuilds, they went dealer direct...

Those are vendor dream prices, or a fool with money. The MSRP at a distributor is half that

Hummer H1 uses an electric lift pump….they fail frequently, the ULSD is a problem, add an additive to your fuel

$8-10k for a GFD? …ummm, No I see NOS complete GFD’s all the time for $3k with CV Joint… looking at that pic, that’s a parts truck unless you do all your own work. Ive got a few that have far less than that missing and I’m more inclined to just part them out to recover my my money. .

Correct, but without going into the differences of BCO on pos or negative, AM General kills the rear battery ground and the 14v positive feed, it ultimately does the same the same thing just a different approach

The connection to the 14v tap off the regulator can and will also act as a ground when the ground is disconnected allowing the truck to be cranked over but on 12v only, I pointed this out years ago and stopped installing BCO’s on 200 amp equpiped trucks. Ive duplicated the issue in front of many...

You can fry just about anything if it’s plugged in…just because the switch isn’t on, does mean it can’t melt the switch, voltage is present in the switch. When saying he wired the batteries backwards, that means he sent positive voltage to all grounds….at least to me it does, and if that’s the...