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mine is purely an observation from daily exposure to the boxes…water can also come from condensation because of the environment the trucks were subject too as well, like old RT radios that would sweat…l

Flashing wait light is a TSU…

the Hand crank heavy turret bearing can sustain a massive amount of weight, an OEM OGPK fully outfitted can be hand cranked effortlessly.

Only the early boxes had water issues inside I’ve found, the later S3’s were sealed up quite nicely, everything facing upward on top is sealed to prevent water intrusion…that wasn’t the case on even early S3’s, I’ve had 100% luck with every S3 box that’s arrived in in auction trucks…I buy about...

that’s the same MOD done to 92-93 H1’s….

My post is for M1165A1 of Aluminum top and rear Wall, yours is not the same top or Rear wall. Just take it to a glass shop…your top appears to be the same if not close to a civilian H1 HMC4 model. Your rear wall window plug is removable.

I’ve had quite a few inquiries about a window on the M1165A1 rear wall, while I have these units at the shop, I can’t and don’t want to ship them, this is more of an offering for customers in the shop, the issue is I wouldn’t venture to ship this as it’s glass…I don’t have the ability to pack it...

the 6.2-6.5NA is more than capable off road, m998’s are 7700 GVW so the suspension is very forgiving, your m1097 is a shelter truck and has/had non-variable rate fixed springs…not ideal unless loaded to the hilt. the 3 speed is as reliable as it’s going to get, an A2 adds in the electronic run...

How is you steering gear? A sloppy gear will do the same, also worn u-joints in the steering column…quite rare, but seen it on early 99 auction trucks,

I have a set on my M1123….just another flavor of hmmwv parts I cut off the flared up lip so i could use them as normal doors.

they aren’t OEM, to my knowledge the Govt does not install a window in that hole.…but I get requests from my buyers to have them installed.

No sir, the OEM CPS slides in and is held in place via a metric bolt. The crank has already had the tone ring installed.

I have the windows in stock, non sliding, with the seal….

there are only 4 FSC colors used on tactical vehicles Green: 34094 Tan: 33446 Black: 37038 Brown: 30051

Pull it out, it’s a small freeze plug….get a drill bit and fill the plug with grease to capture the shavings, you can use a slide hammer or if hole big enough to pry it out…

They don’t start because the batteries are dead and need Slave jump… All USMC rolling stock is Harvest/exchange program, the Army trucks are DLA turn in’s….regardless, they are all excess and turned in for proper disposition And disposal.

Never open the water seperator petcock unless you ready to have a non-running truck…especially on a Sunday when your ready for a day out in your truck.

MT/R’s are garbage….love the look, the tire sucks….we only use BFG Baja

Well, the drive shaft has to come out to remove the fuel tank, make sure to remove all inboard straps, especially the short one bolted onto the cross beam, drop the rear of the tank down and slide it backwards, you may need to rotate the yoke on the differential. The fuel tank vent is connected...

no one is going to do any of that….nor are they equipped to do such, perhaps someone should just make a quality switch with the mods completed? Plug and play….it’s hard enough to get owners to check there oil let alone find and buy a quality component and go home and solder additional components...