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Scott, I knew I would get that exact argument when I wrote that yesterday. I should have stopped there and deleted it. You are correct about both transmissions when they are used as intended and maintained.

Sorry, but if you can make it stall while playing with the throttle. That points to an IP needing attention. I had one like that too. Very frustrating but the IP is a wear item and you have no clue when it was last replaced if ever.

Well, here is the thread about my 3/4 Suburban. It is loooooonnnnnnnnggggggggggg. I go through which transmission in great detail. Along with turbo stuff, engine swaps, pretty much the entire thing: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m1007-cucv-suburban-clone-build-thread.74514/ I have...

He almost got me for the TCC switch and wiring harness but I wanted to do the test to see if it would even work. He gave me the part number in case I decided I wanted it later.

Now I have to do another story. I ran waste motor oil, hydraulic fluid, transmission fluid, etc.... Basically, anything but diesel in my truck for years. It grew to have a pretty dark cloud hovering over it sometimes. The odd mixture of fuel also had its own special aroma when burned too. I...

Hold on. Unbolt the master cylinder again and look at the piston in the bore. Is it all the way back to the snap ring or in just a bit? Push the piston in with your finger or a screw driver and see if it pops right back to the snap ring or slowly makes it way back there. I agree that non...

The 700R4 is basically an overdrive version of the old TH350. The light duty car transmission that failed a lot. Yes, there are parts and people out there that can make them basically bullet proof for any application. If you can afford to go that route, then they are great in any CUCV. No...

Thank you. I won't steal your idea for a video. Since I turned this into a whistler turbo story time thread I might as well tell another. Pistolnut bought a Whistler truck near Boerne, TX in 2005. I helped him get it road worthy enough to drive the 130 miles to his house. It ran good, but...

I did some more research about engine braking with the 4L80E. Then I read through my Compushift 90 page manual and found an option for locking the torque converter in any gear. That made me curious so I called them up. I bought their transmission control module 5 years ago mostly based on the...

Sermis, Kwai and I arrived at the 2007 Georgia Rally early. It was held in a state park on top of a mountain. We were looking around thinking we had the wrong spot until we heard a whistle in the far distance. Very faint at first but we knew what it was and just settled in to wait. About 10...

There are no springs inside the caliper to pull the piston back. If you can open the bleeder and not have fluid come out under pressure. Then it seems to me your hydraulic part of the system is correct. Yes, the "new" calipers could have scored or rusty bores that are limiting the pistons...

Easy swap as already written. Just be aware hearing protection is really, really, really needed with the C turbo. Everyone within a mile or more of you will know where you are and what you are doing as well. I love my Whistler but wanted to make sure you are aware of the side effects.

You are fine as Keith wrote. They probably put that label on because of the British positive ground vehicles of the past. Think Land Rover. My 1967 Cooper S was like that until I converted it to negative ground. Made hooking anything up a science experiment.

The interior Buss bar is great if you are a coffee or tea person and get an armored vehicle water warmer. Good for MRE eating and Mountain House meals too.

Yes, the 6 legged ground on the parking brake mount is a great ground for 12 volt stuff. While you are there, unbolt it and clean the contact surface with the truck before bolting it back on again. There are 3 places on your truck that have easily accessible 24 volts. The firewall Buss bar...

Your truck is still 12 and 24 volt, right? If you still have the 12/24 volt set up the rear battery is the 24 volt part of that system and totally isolated from the 12 volt part of the truck until you connect something like a CB radio to it. Then, the 24 volts will let the magic smoke out of...

The safe, no worries way is to wire it to the front battery.

The CUCV alternators have a tachomoter output on the back for the STE/ICE system. Your tach might work off that signal. The best way to make it work and be able to get calibrated is to by the Dakota Digital diesel alternator tach adaptor. I have one on my CUCV engined and wired M715 and one...

That looks good. I started making a plate to do the exact same thing many years ago. Then realized as little as I drive it the oil was going to age out before I wore it out and just let it be. Nice work.

The relay solenoid uses 12 volts to connect the 24 volts from the battery to the starter solenoid. If it is chattering then it is most likely a problem on the 12 volts side of the relay or the relay is failing internally and not giving continuous flow of 24 volts. The only way I can think to...