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At this point, leave the pink wire hooked up. Air is already in there. With every thing hooked up, crank while counting to 20. Stop for a minute or two, repeat until it coughs which if this is your problem. Should be about 40-80 seconds of cranking. You will want to keep cranking when it coughs...

You wrote about bleeding the fuel, then the fuel filter swap. Do you mean you did bleed the new filter with the pink wire unplugged? Then it hasn’t started since? If that is the sequence then some air might have gotten in. That seems to always happen with me as well. I have found 45-90 seconds...

Are you by chance talking about the proportioning valve on a cross member under the radiator?

The return spring is pretty strong on those things. Once your foot takes up the slack at the throttle. everything should be tight and good.

All of mine have a lot of slop there and only have the cable end with a clip to hold it on.

I did. We were discussing Gasser trucks of the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. I have two REO M35 trucks and an AM General truck. I know others made them.

M34 and M35 were REO products. Totally different from the GM M135 and M211. I don’t think there are any common parts outside of the light switch and wire ends.

Drivers side is ALT 1 and charges the front battery. Passenger side is ALT 2 and charges the rear battery.

The CUCV is wired so the rear battery negative is connected to the positive of the front battery. If you look at the terminal the big wire goes to the front battery and the small red wire goes over to the diamond shaped Buss bar next to the glow plug relay. that is the 12 volt positive supply...

The negative of the rear battery is the positive of the front battery. I think you are correct that the isolated ground lug of ALT 1 is no longer isolated.

I put civilian ones in two of my trucks. Get the front and rear brackets that go with them. Then they fit and work perfect.

I had a Stanadyne guy tell me 5-8 year lifespan. that was 12 years ago. 2 of my 6.2 trucks are still on the the IP I acquired them with at least 10 years ago. Another engine is 11 years on a rebuild with no issues. Of course, the guy that makes money rebuilding them is going to say 5-8 years...

I have the same leak in one of mine.

Thanks Keith. I do have that manual but either never made it to section D or lost my mental image of it.

Serpentine belt or V belts? That is the difference in the water pump designs. Each has its own backing plate that will not work on the other pump. If you got a pump to bolt to your backing plate and block, then it is the same as what was there before. Unless you swapped backing plates as well...

What manual is that? I don’t think I have seen that passage before.

Looks good.

Bypassing that might help some. What worked best for me was cleaning the contacts on the diamond shaped Buss bar above the glow plug relay.

I picked up a M101A2 in OKC years ago and had the same thought process. Trailer or pull? I wanted to pull. So, I removed the hubs, bearings, brakes and wheels from another M101 and brought them all with me. Then swapped them over so I knew all the parts were ready to go. Good thing I had...

Since the belt is missing from the passenger side alternator and the front battery negative cable seems to be going to the firewall Buss bar. I have to ask if your truck has been converted to 12 volts? If so, search for the Roscommon conversion to see how things are supposed to be wired. If...