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But it sounds like you are dividing your power system, one for starter, one for pdp? I dont personally see a need for this... The alt must see both 12 and 24v connections to a series battery string to regulate correctly. Beyond that you should be able to pull 2.8KW@28v. Mine does...

That sounds a little complex. Now a second set of batts isnt a bad idea especially if you are in VERY cold(below zero) temps. But that can be done with a simple BIRD relay either on a timer or a current sense control. Allows time for first batt to charge then connects second, or waits till...

The 12v load is under 30A... my vanner does not show any i dication of warmth and its under my passenger dash...

I would say fluctuations would be as likely a poor/weak connection as a failing component. As I recall General found a bad connection just inside the front case where the Regulator connection is located…

Even 100A @28V is a LOT of power. 2.8KW. The issue with the 100A dual volts is that the load on the 12v side reduces its output by 1/3, to ~1950W when both sides are fully loaded. If S&S would have put in a straight 24v alt and a converter/equalizer, these trucks would have been bulletproof...

Yep, and i think you will find it probably hangs around 3300W, as that is where mine stopped building any more field. The field determines the output so full field should continue to maintain that output(P over I times E), as the load pulls down the voltage. At the point I went to(~120%), the...

And when you get done with that 200A test, perform the same test on a different 24v@ 100A alt… What you describe is what I would expect to happen on any alt. It will continue to deliver its maximum output in watts, because it will continue to maintain a field till it returns to its commanded...

They do not appear to be that inteligent…

Yea there are several places for issues: sensor to bulkhead, bh to harness, harness to cab bulkhead connector and cab BH to internal connectors on TCU. In the case of my interference issue, it could also be a shield or missing ground along the path, or leakage in a contaminated connector...

I have probably played around with more alternators than most, my two diesel generators, I built myself. I participated in some R&D with a group working to develop a more efficient DC generator/cogenerator for off grid battery maintenance, with a custom arduino based regulator that actually...

i believe the 3 ohm for the diff solenoid is correct. If the speed sensor measures 9.5 independent of the pass-thru connector, it sounds bad to me… as to the wire moving like Skyhawk describes, it could be hydraulics. Oil and big spinning gears in there. mine is occasionally showing a speed...

The allison manual says 30 ohms for the retarder solenoid, but the 34-1 manual says the center diff solenoid is 3-5 ohms, mine measures 3.3 ohms… i would pull the rear access cover and check the speed sensor resistance disconnected from/ independent of the transfer case pass-thru connector… an...

It was this one, but it may have been he needed a .PDF app on his Ipad to open it fully… https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtva1-electrical-schematics.158229/

Message me your Email mike and I can send it to you as a .PDF.

Yea the trans is also 24v. pretty straightforward and far simpler to replace the dual volt with a straight 24v alt and use a 24-12 converter(easier more efficient conversion) to provide for the 12v lighting loads. Victron makes a nice 70A one that will fit in the passenger dash and would be...

Well if something wasn’t broke, why fix it… it isn’t just alternators that were failing. Low state of charge is the biggest killer of batteries, and it takes long run times to top off 240AH of depleted batts with a 100A dual volt. With more than half their 12V capacity consumed by lighting...

I was thinking about a rail on either side of the rad. You could slip panels up these rails to progressively block the surface, or place something like a roller door at the bottom to push a panel up. The shade idea should also work…

Sales hype? The cautions in their troubleshooting manuals clearly contradict this…

it isn’t limiting its current it limits its voltage, simply because it cannot make any more under increasing load Despite full field being applied… I can increase the load on it, and the voltage drops. but if you look at it in terms of watts, you will find the alt is still putting out a...

The shunt is in the loadbank connected at alternator...