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I got a chance to play with the alt this afternoon, and voltage dropped off steeply once it hit full field Drive, same as any other alt. Using the rated +/- 0.5 criteria, I hit 27.5V ~120A(3300W). It fell past 25V just above that. I have an aging 1000A pile, so precise adjustments in the low...
I never separated the plastic desiccant cover from the inner aluminum tube. It being on the downstream side of the filter and dessicant, mine was perfectly clean down inside. The plastic core, air filter and aluminum tube came out as one assembly from the finned outer housing. I showed...
what we are talking about here is the gauge sender, that provides the info to drive the oil pressure gauge. I still have the 15 PSI low oil pressure switch in place driving its normal idiot light and alt excite relay K11…
I have only run mine to 100A, Let me see how my schedule shakes out this weekend maybe I can hookup again and collect some other data, as I will be backing the frame into the garage to weld up my hydraulic habitat restraints.. With 100A applied at idle I had .4v drop from 28V and .1V drop at...
Removed the oil sender. I prefer long sweep gauges personally(270+ sweep), most electric gauges are short sweep(90-180 deg). Overall I have had better luck with mechanical gauges over the year…
yes and no. Alternators are rated to deliver their rated voltage up to their rated current. At this point they are basically driving the field near or at 100%, so have no more output to give. Any loading beyond this point will cause a decrease in output voltage. This decrease in voltage is...
The gauge sender provides a variable resistance to ground based on the pressure it sees, so you can connect tgat srnder lead to ground thru a resistor and you should see a different reading on the meter. I forgwt what ohm.range we run. Replaced mine with a mechanical gauge:)
You should be able to block that hand pump return line with a gauge and should see no more than about 5 PSI on it while fluid is returning, if the check back to the AOP return line is opening and flowing properly...
Not a clue if it can absorb that, the fact you are getting a trans code prettymuch confirms a spike and it not being absorbed. This could be a diode breaking down in the rectifiers in the alt chassis...
What General said punch in the middle of the screw head and tap with a hammer to break up the white powdered oxide between aluminum case and steel threads. Have the same issue with old motorcycle case screws and shocking them has proven very effective over the years. Shocking/tapping while...
@Xengineguy
Ok, i got a chance to take some readings. I don't have a 3 Ohm injector or solenoid to measure into so these were taken into a 85 Ohm 12v relay coil. Readings taken with a Fluke 87.
My A0 WTEC2 TCU won’t enable diff lock until the engine is running.
with the ignition on I get...
Ok, MY 4WD problem is solved. It was my VIM delete. A friend of mine shared some info about an issue he heard of where the 4WD failure turned out to be a bad 161-163 circuit. This pointed me back toward the VIM as that circuit does go thru the VIM. I misidentified that circuit when I did my...
Low impedance and peak/hold PWM to vary the current allowed more rapid and precise control.
it makes sense to have just one control scheme and stick with it, even though the C7 solenoid really only needs to be an on/off. In the 3060 troubleshooting manual it states that the H solenoid(3060...
You would need to limit current flow with direct DC otherwise you would cook the low impedance C7 solenoid coil. i am not sure if the C7 solenoid valve vents when open, but I was able to feed air into the clutch port and engage it, with little apparent leak-down, and the air I shot in blew...
I checked the diff-lock light/power divider signal(wire 125) and it is also not changing state with mode either, but the trans display indicates mode and shifts to the 5 speed limit… this is starting to look like TCU output for my issue, grumble grumble. I will pull the TCU out and see if I can...
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