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Other than the parts of course. The conversion is pretty easy. And can be done on a weekend. You will need new driveshafts. All the locations for the chutch holes are marked already. So drilling is a snap. Your biggest problem is going to be locating a flywheel. The 6.2 manual flywheel is a rare...
I'm with crash. JB weld works wonders. It has saved more than one engine for me. I sudjest getting the KWIK. That way you won't have to wait overnight to see if it held. There is a produst called bellzona. It's like JB WELD but industrial strength.
Mitch, First check the buss fuse on the panel. It's for the 24V side. If it's blown it will not keep the solenoid open for the engine to run. Mine also had a bad cable. I got a new one from mikes gen parts on ebay. About $20. Also you can adjust the throttle linkage to run where you want it...
Bill, A very small amount of oil is ok. You don't want it coated enough to drip when you remove something. Check the return oil piping first. Make sure it's clear. Are you getting oil into the exaust pipe also?
The sidewinder is very picky about oil flow. Espacilly if yours has a blue tag on the bearing housing. Did you use the original oil feed line from banks? It has small holes in the fittings. They are used to meter the amount of oil the turbo gets. If you have a strait 1/8 tubing feeding the turbo...
My 1028 was that way. I replaced the rear output with the old stile short tailshaft. It's a NP205. And had a new shaft with a stub and slipyoke made for it. All together i spent $400. But you could just replace the shaft for $250.
Rember this is a tactical truck. So alot of failures came from hard use. But when the owner is the operator the truck stands alot better chance. Cranetruck has a very good point. Change the oil. And change it often! In everything!! Including the axles and gearboxes. All the wheel bearings are...
The bolts in the front sould come off easily. But the studs closer to the engine block will probally break off. Start out with some penetrating oil. And soak all four nuts for a few days. Then shock them with a brass or copper hammer. Not hard enough to break something. Just enough to shock...
I have seen the rack mounted in the front of the bed on some M1008's at the GSA in Ft Worth. Behind the seat might be easier than climbing into the bed to get to the tools. And worse if you had the truck loaded.
What about a CUCV mod section like the duece one? There are alot of guys that mod these into hard core off road trucks. Then others that are trying to fix something or ask about repairs. It might simplifly things for some.
Thanks jimmy. Snow isn't a problem in houston. Mabye once in 20 years are so. Getting it quiet enough to carry a conversation in the cab at 50MPH is the main goal. Thanks again for you help.
Jimmy, Thanks for the pics. I'm trying to locate that oval to round short hose. Without much luck. I might have to make something. That drone noise gets old after a few miles. Since you've had it on there for a while now,how to you like it? Noise level tolerable? Thanks again.
Jimmy, Can you post a close up pic of the hose that is oval on one end and round on the other? Where is attaches to the air filter housing. I'm also trying to stop the drone noise in my 1028. I have the air fliter housing and it's made a difference. But id like to run the hose up to the core...