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CUCV engine block repair

jetskinut94

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I have a 1984 m1009 and I have a problem that I thought maybe someone out the in the CUCV world might be able to help me solve. A few weeks ago my torque converter bolts came loose and blew a hole in the left side of the transmission case and broke a small chunk out of the back of the block near the oil filter mount. I have the truck up on my lift and the tranny is out getting a new case.
When you install an oil filter on the engine that part of the block that is missing is going to allow oil to flow out over the top of the filter. Its not a huge hole put its enough to allow oil to blow by. (I plan on taking a picture of it tonight so I can post it here if need be)

So I figured I have have two ways of fixing this problem.....
1. get a new block (which I do not want to do)

2. go with some sort of oil filter bypass kit and just bypass this area altogether. I have talked to an Amsoil rep and he can get me a kit, but where and how to install it is where I could use some help.

If I put the adaptor onto the current spot where the current filter goes it will still blow past the adaptor. So, one idea I had was to use the oil cooler lines that come out of the block and connect into them with my bypass kit, then seal off the holes where the oil filter currrently mounts. I would then send the oil to the filter then to the cooler and then back to the motor.

That is my crazy solution so far I am open to any other ideas you might have.

Any crazy ideas are welcome.....

Thanks in advance.
 

armytruck63

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Important question, do you have the chunk that blew out of the block? If so, there is a possibility that it could be welded back on. There are special welding rods for cast iron. You could take the chunk to a good welding shop in the area and discuss it with them. It's possible that some machining would also be required after welding.
 

Crash_AF

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An adapter kit is going to have the same face as the oil filter, so if the filter is going to leak, the adapter will as well.

For the repair, I'd try JB Weld epoxy. The stick form of it should be solid enough to mold into an approximate shape so you can repair the area without having to worry about it running.

Later,
Joe
 

grayw0lf

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Good luck. It doesn't sound too promising. Welding cast iron is not an easy task. The average welding shop probably won't be able to help you.
 

ken

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I'm with crash. JB weld works wonders. It has saved more than one engine for me. I sudjest getting the KWIK. That way you won't have to wait overnight to see if it held. There is a produst called bellzona. It's like JB WELD but industrial strength.
 

davo727

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Might be able to tap the oil holes under there for 3/8 pipe thread fittings.... and run flex hose to a remote filter unit.

I would need to look at the bare block I have in storage to see if it looks do-able, im at work right now.
 

ken

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Try Grainger for the bellzona. I believe that's where i got the last batch. If you have a Machine Shop supply near by. They should carry it also.
 

jetskinut94

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DAVO727
Thats a good idea I was recently thinking the same thing, currently there are 3 holes, the center hole that the oil filter screws onto, one to the left of center and one to the right of center. From what I can tell the one small hole is used to return filtered oil to the motor from the filter and the other small hole is a bypass when the filter is clogged....not 100% on this. I could easily get some fittings to hook to the threaded center hole and then run a tap into the two others, then run lines to an external oil filter. That way I do not have to worry about filling up the gap with JB weld or something.

I am thinking if the one hole is for a bypass when the filter is clogged I might just plug it and call it good.
 

wreckerman893

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If all else fails there are lots of pullout engines being sold on an unnamed gooberment auction site that is familiar to most members.

You can get them cheap and sometimes it is just easier to swap one out than to reinvent the wheel....you have to factor your time, labor, cost of repair material and what will happen if the repair fails at an inopportune time.
Just my two coppers worth.
 

bgekky3

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Can you post a pic of the broken block?

I put a remote filter on a smallblock chevy. It is a little smaller than the filter base, but not by much.

Tapping the oils holes might be the way to go. Make sure you use a good filter if you do not have a bypass. I run wix or K&Ns, on my truck with no bypass. I also make sure it is warm before I run it hard. Lesser filters can come apart internally or explode do to too much pressure and restriction.
 

davo727

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Cleveland, TX , Spring , TX
I think it will work, measure the dia of the holes.

One chart I found online shows a drill dia of 9/16 or .562 for a 3/8 npt tap. Another showed 37/64 which is .578 . You should be able to buy a kit with the tap and drill bit.



DAVO727
Thats a good idea I was recently thinking the same thing, currently there are 3 holes, the center hole that the oil filter screws onto, one to the left of center and one to the right of center. From what I can tell the one small hole is used to return filtered oil to the motor from the filter and the other small hole is a bypass when the filter is clogged....not 100% on this. I could easily get some fittings to hook to the threaded center hole and then run a tap into the two others, then run lines to an external oil filter. That way I do not have to worry about filling up the gap with JB weld or something.

I am thinking if the one hole is for a bypass when the filter is clogged I might just plug it and call it good.
 

davo727

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And Im pretty well positive one of the side holes is the pressurized oil from the oil pump, the center hole is the filtered oil to the main oil gallery and the other side hole is the bypass relief port
 

bgekky3

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It looks like you have it figured out. My remote filter setup uses Ford type filters. They have a high burts rating than the Chevy. Make sure you get good filters, because you don't want to loose your oil or tear the filter material inside.
 

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davo727

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Cleveland, TX , Spring , TX
So you need some kind of fitting that will screw into the center port, need to tap the pressure port for a fitting and remove that little flapper thing in the relief port and tap and plug that port.

What are the diameters of the holes now?

Edit: The center is threaded already and will accept a : 13/16 - 16 thread per inch nipple
 
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