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I've got a 5k tank on the shelf if you need one. My preferred way to is to remove the roof, and only the bolts at the lowest edge of the panels (inside the engine bay, and both sides around the tank. Leave it all as one piece... won't be chasing alignment issues that way. You should be able to...

Yeah easy 8 hours, 10-12+ easily under lesser load.

And after you do both of those, be VERY liberal with a good deoxidizing spray on every contact, switch pad, screw, etc... the fine stuff you can't see you can displace (and help connections at the same time) with that spray. I recommend Deoxit...

You will be more than happy with Rays products 60hertz

At least it sounds like your doc had the right TMs at hand to sort out the issue ;). Rest up!

Not the best photo by ANY measure... but taken quick off a parts machine here to confirm what I thought I remembered.

I think the sheet metal case is tagged with these numbers too, but I think its on the back side of the relay base, so you won't see it unless the top is off.

As Kurt said... no issue hooking up as they sit in the machine. Just don't energize the charger while the machine (ie the battery charging alternator) is running. You can get into an overcharging situation.

I use the generation of this product before this (GENM2... discontinued now I think). Its worked well for years. https://no.co/gen5x2

A LOT of batteries listed for the 1050... but I am pretty sure the Optima Red Tops 34/78 will work well for this application (what they put in 803s). Best thing you can do is to measure the tray in the machine, and find the biggest batteries you can afford...

And there is a mounting plate missing for the FSS. I have one. Also you will need the hardware set that goes with the FSS as well. Onan asks $110 just for the armature that comes out of the FSS. I have used sets available (and the mounting plate too). Edit: Your mounting bracket is there, I...

And it looks like someone might have dicked with the high side throttle stop, looks like its not going to let the engine run fast enough.

I've got a MIP on the shelf if you find the intermittent issues lies within it.

As Farmitall said, if DC kicks it over without issue its in the other circuitry. I would take the top off and inspect/clean the crank relay. A very simple assembly you can hit with some deoxidizing cleaner when you take the small plastic/ceramic top off it.

The bottom of each pump has a mesh strainer which can be removed and cleaned. On the 002/003 after that is a separator, then two canister style filtering heads.

And if the EMI filter does fail, cut and splice them out in the most waterproof manner you can muster. The pumps should work fine for civilian use without them.

The rubber boot (packard) connectors pull apart, just twist them a bit softly to loosen them up. Once separated, use a handheld multimeter to test for voltage on the DC side (aux + prime setting you should see DC at two of them, prime at only one). Those inline filters fail often enough that if...

It seems the ultimate upgrade part is tough to find right now... not sure if these folks have stock: https://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=A-10897&dfw_tracker=140621-101627&campaignid=17864099643&keyword=101627 Needs a 3/4" washer with it too from memory, not included.

You can use the same ultimate well nut for this position too (its the same part as the lower tank drain). If you don't want to go through the effort, you can get the upgraded grey style here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224013193011

I have that same KUS sender on the shelf for my personal machine when the time comes.