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Do you have the TMs for this set? They are available in the TM forum here if not. The -24P for this machine calls out the filter here: NSN 2940015098381 which ties back to the following:

Color me shocked then... you dont hardly ever see the As across the block, as compared to the Bs. Not that I pay too much attention to the larger 3PH stuff... but its almost always Bs.

The A versions of each of the machines Guy listed were 'analog' style, though I'm not sure how many units of each were actually fielded before going to the B variants... but they are out there.

They are on FB too, for those who might be on that platform: https://www.facebook.com/armypsmagazine/

Yeah there is no getting around it, Just get a 5/16 nut runner for the panel bolts and a socket and crescent for the larger lower line of bolts. Easy on, easy off.

Do you have the -24 TM for this machine? It has a flow chart of troubleshooting any issues you can face. An example related to just the engine characteristics:

You can make a dual male ended cable to jump the leads together that are coming off the switch, to take it out of the equation.

Have you had the batteries tested? Does the machine make power by the gauges or is it shutting down before they register?

I've tried it both ways, and I normally just put the spool of 1/8" line down where the oil fill battery would reside, and just pull to match the length of each section and cut in place. To each their own, whatever works.

All of the return lines, including #5, are all the same 3.5MM material (or the upgraded Gates). For the tees, I would chuck and put in new. I've bought them by the sack here: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=104481 If you want a couple I will send them up your way. And yes...

Ritchie Bros are a completely useless organization with zero customer service skills. Its a damn shame they bought Gov Planet.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-003a-004a-005a-drop-in-spin-on-fuel-filter-adapter.201506/

Thats a real nice product Kurt... I think you are going to do very well with it!

With the so-called fix, as I believe the threading for the nut is NPT... you could just buy an NPT cap and do exactly what if you wished.

Yes a very good idea, even better if you have this genset close to a dwelling. You could plumb some conduit underground from the machine to the dwelling. Use a NATO fitting and appropriately sized wires at the machine, underground, into the dwelling direct to (2) 12V batteries. That way even if...

Most sets I have encountered did not have the RTV seal in place... maybe a half dozen or so have. PITA when you have to peel it off when its applied.

One of the reasons I am done with the air cooled sets... just too costly if there is a problem these days. That and the request for such items are low here in the Northeast (for me at least). I'm glad to see you are moving through this with relative ease though, all things considered. :)

Its probably the rubber well nut that is leaking, happens all the time on the 80X models. If you can rotate that whole elbow, its probably seeping there. You can replace it with the OEM, but if the P/Ns cross to the same on the smaller sets, I would opt personally to install one of the bulkhead...

No affiliation, just passing forward. https://shop.cummins.com/CSSNAStore/s/?store=US

If the alternator is working properly, the machine should continue to run as expected. With that said, I would advise against doing so.