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That devices sole purpose was to disconnect failing/dead batteries when commanded by the LBCD, to save a very expensive alternator, so you could continue with the mission.
A side benefit was having a remote disconnect you could operate with a switch.
A large potential downside, is if the...
I would call the pics with the 4 individual power dist modules/PDMs an A1R…
The A1 panel was a green circuit board with soldered on components and sockets, like in these pics. For the R it appears that they replaced the circuit board with the 4 PDMs and kept the ign relays K1 and K2 on the...
Scanning would be cool. It took a lot of time to get dimensions to get the cab and chassis into autocad. I usually get pretty good the 2nd or 3rd time I build something, so I try and get those first couple of builds out of the way in CAD:)
I would also expect more noise out of them if they were not properly filled with lube, or the end thrust bearing and washer stack has developed issues. Where did you get the truck from? These things went to excess for a reason, and if it has not been gone thru by someone willing to dot the Is...
Not for an A1. It should be very similar to the A0 as the wiring at the starter is basically the same, but I have nothing specific to confirm that. The starter replace procedure is in chapter 7 which is in the 20-3 manual. You can download all the A0 manuals up in the manuals section.
In the normal configuration the battery ground terminals are the 2 - terminals farthest from the frame. There shoukd be a cable tgat runs from there to the front of the starter motor, and a ground strap tgat ties from that starter motor ground terminal to the drivers frame rail. And another to...
Dont have a pic handy, on an A0 they are all the way over on the left edge of the compartment, three 1" diameter discs aligned vertically in the panel, for ground, 12 and 24v panel input from the polarity box. each has a threaded hole in the center...
On the A1 the panel has 4 boltheads spread...
4:1… the one I have is 63:1. That means 7.1ft/lb on the wrench =450ft/lb on the socket, minus gear losses of course. Thats why I cautioned about cranking it the right direction, you could do some damage with one of these… I think I would actually prefer a 4 or 5:1…:)
Yep, got one just like it at home. The multiplication works both ways, so make sure you spin it the right way for the threads you are trying to loosen, and dont overtighten them when putting tgem back on. There is no substitute for delivering the proper torque(torque wrench or meter) and lever...
Don’t have anything up for the floor/frame build, as I am just starting on that now(Just cut the last huck bolts this afternoon) so the upper frame is now free of the lower frame. I cut the hucks in the lower holes on the joiner plates(circled in red) and will cover the holes so I can run...
No real build thread, just some utube vids(user rronmar) as I go thru the various modifications/alterations to prep the frame for the box build. I am converting the upper frame rail into the floor frame for the habitat and will use captive hydraulics to allow the main frame rail to twist away...
Well if I were keeping the bed, I think I would find a shelter box, or build my own to fit the full extent of the flatbed. A camper designed for a pickup bed winds up having compromises, being designed for a narrower bed with wheel wells. If it is cold where you are at, you could probably...
Well in the case of a shelter box or camper placed in the bed, the bed structure(all 2600 pounds of it) acts as the subframe, and its components allow for some flex without transmitting all the frame twist into the box. The box of course needs to be able to withstand or tollerate any flex it...
yea the test should be applicable to any truck with an anti-compound configuration. How the brakes are adjusted might effect the results you see, but it is still a matter of the anti-compound rolling off the park as the service is being applied. Like I mentioned in the start of the video, I...
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