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The fronts originally took 13oz each when empty. You confirm this ammount by setting the filler port to the 4 O'clock position and seeing if oil just starts to come out.
The gears have been removed, but the volume of the hub has also been decreased significantly.
It is not good to too deeply...
Yea where refining the lash pays off is in it running quieter and cooler with the most efficient gear contact. As mentioned it is not rocket surgury. And I agree, because of that, that is probably why we don’t see many hub issues, in fact the only ones I recall from recent history it was...
Well in order for gear wear to be a factor, you would have to have a LOT of metal shaved off of the teeth of those very hard gears, left lying in the hub to make a significant difference In lash.
Remember, the spider gears are sandwiched between the fixed inner bevel gear and the rotating outer...
Ok, that sheds a little more light on this mystery. It appears Allison has re specced this part 2 if not 3 times.
A question I had in the other discussion was that the part number for the old bearing in the service information letter(SIL 17-WT-11en) that Langstonhs referenced, was not the same...
4226 is short to battery N solenoid circuit.
Here is a link to the Allison troubleshooting manual...
https://krutzaspreading.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Allison-WTEC-2-Troubleshooting-Manual.pdf
The starter has its OWN 24v lead to the solenoid on top of the starter. that why there are two 24v terminals in the battery box, one to the top polarity box terminal, and one to the starter solenoid.
The top terminal on the alternator is 24V the next one down/outboard is 12V, and the third...
Couple of ways. The A0 has a 12v vampire load, so a 24v charger will not charge the batteries equally. You can get a small 5A balancer and then use a 24v charger or a 12v charger connected to either battery.
you can also get something like a Noco 2 bank charger and connect it to both...
I think if you look closer you may find there are 2 crossmembers, one in the subframe above the main frame… that may depend on the model truck we are dealing with though. The 1079 subframe has a welded member there, about 3 inches behind the transmission. you would have to remove a bunch of...
I agree with general, looks like a cage for the thrust bearing.. on the passenger side of the transfer, there is a port with a hose that runs up to the scavenger pump On the passenger side of the trans housing. If you remove that line and the fitting that connects the line to the transfer...
Your A0 has a polarity protection box not LBCD. Yes the terminals are labeled on the side of the box.
What should you see on a meter? Set it to measure resistance. Leads apart = high resistance(OL?), leads touching = very low resistance(0.1-0.3 ohms).
If you connect one end of a length of...
What year truck, A0 or A1?
Well you can pick a cable, any cable and start hand-over-handing it. Best to lower the spare tire. It is easiest to access the polarity box and shunt, or LBCD(A1) By crawling in where the spare rides…
so you have two 24s, one 12 and one Ground
Ground goes to the...
Yea,I don’t like those wire taps either, they damage the wire, compromise the insulation and allow moisture intrusion and corrosion. I have pulled apart lot of damaged wiring where those were installed. When they come inan install kit, I throw them in the trash…
There is nothing special...
The sniff test may or may not be conclusive, as if the axle vent is not leaking CTIS air when stationary, it may not be bad enough to allow gear oil into the CTIS side of the seal as the axle side, being vented, is never under any real pressure...
The outer bearing is wet, the inner bearing is...
Well quality is pretty subjective… I don't recall ever personally seeing a bad domestic oil pressure switch on a car or truck. But have come across quite a few bad Nason oil pressure switches on this forum alone, in this relatively small LMTV comunity… I do not know that I would call the...
The Dual digital came from Summit or off Amazon, would have to look it up. My CTIS controller was bricked when I got my truck, and I didn’t want to throw money at another when they appear to be a fairly high failure item. So I configured a manual electric control. The top display on that...
In this vid I show hooking up a basic mechanical oil pressure gauge kit to measure Primary fuel pressure. I used a C-clamp to squeeze the line to dampen pulsations, so it worked like the installed gauge in the above video.
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