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It is your key in the ignition buzzer as mentioned above. You have to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate to get to where it would be.

Yes, the civilian trucks had a light. All you need is a light holder just like the front fender marker lights and it will pop right in. It is totally useless in use though. One click back is 4hi, then over to N and another click back is 4lo. A light isn't really needed for that.

I just put a 6.2 and a 6.5 flexplate next to each other and looked them over. Everything was the same except the part number as far as I could tell. No massive weights or anything like that on one that wasn't on the other. Most direct drive starters were automatic or manual specific. All...

The 4911 is the pump every person with a turbo wants on their 6.5. Just letting you know it has value if you ever want to do something with it. It reads like you have things figured out as well.

I have had good success with the braided lines. I think all of my trucks now have them. No issues. I got mine from Badger Diesel.

Awesome Carnac. I guess whoever is first with stuff to sell needs to start a Rally for sale or barter thread. It will be another week before I can look at my stuff and see if I want to part with anything.

OK. Just checking since some people don't understand how far apart some things are around here. We had a guy years ago on this forum from your part of the country that was flying to San Antonio for business. He started posting about how he was going to come see me, a member in Temple, another...

You are welcome to attend. You do know it is an 8 hour drive or so?

Any and all odd ball or "normal" military vehicles are welcome. Plus cool non military vehicles too. Now, at the museum Saturday it needs to be just military vehicles.

Don't forget the electric cab air conditioner too! You will fit right in with this group Keith.

Keith can be allowed in to the open for all Rally. He has a CUCV shop truck and knows how to use it.

That is my plan while the fuel is cheap and the weather is no ac friendly. Thanks again for all the help everyone.

I think I have the Whistler in shape to make the trip this year. Thanks again for doing this Lincoln.

What can I write besides we are all a bit on the special side. Colton and I spent the afternoon after church putting all the wire clamps on. I don’t have a good set of batteries so I’m not going to do any extended long drives until I do. So hat will have to wait. One odd thing we both...

Chris, the IP TM says those safety wired screws are supposed to be 18 inch pounds. That had it binding last week so I just backed them off to where it was moving free then wired them in place. Same yesterday except I didn’t even try torquing. I just went by feel. Kind of like setting wheel...

I took the cover off and had only oil in there. That for sure was where I was getting the fuel from before the O-Ring swap. Then I pulled the the clip off the control rod and removed the plunger after clipping the safety wire off again. Every thing looked correct. Just because I put a screw...

I took mine apart 8 years ago to try and refresh them. A pop tester is really needed after you take them apart to verify they are good. Buying new Bosch injectors is almost cheaper and easier in the long run.

Let me go over what we did. I have a spare IP of unknown condition. I also handed Gimpy tools 5 years ago as he did a HH replacement on Rich’s truck in my driveway. That was my training besides reading about it. So, I lined up the red tooth on the spare IP and removed the HH to practice. It...

Timing as in we put the HH back on a tooth off?

Yes, lines are on the correct way. I double checked that thinking the same thing. Cracked the lines open at the injectors with it running today. I didn’t think it needed to be done. But did it anyway. Each line cracked caused a drop in rpm. All starts the first day required a shot of ether...