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I have an M1083A1 from @fuzzytoaster I highly recommend him as your source when you get ready to buy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All, I used this part for my foot well heater vents. it looks to be a perfect fit. Crush-Resistant Duct Hose for Air, 2" ID, 2-3/8" OD https://www.mcmaster.com/5152K43

I think I figured it out. The switches I bought block the light some when off. In daylight, they are too dim. So, I must have a disconnect somewhere for the drain switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok…. Update …. Weirdness. My drain switch (upper right) is not working. Also, all of the new on-off switches only light up when the switch is on. But, my new toggle switch for cruise lights up all of the time. They are all powered off if the same harness. Weird….. Gonna bundle up the wire...

I recarpeted my cab. Is there anything that says I need to have the weights placard installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice…. I thought that was your tobacco holder. Did you post it for sale yet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for closing the loop! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really hope it works out. That would open the door for a lot of folks. Those units are on par with the minisplits people are installing. That would be a pretty slick thing of you had enough solar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But, your house is way better insulated and the hvac is always on maintaining temperature. Your truck will be 150 degrees and in the sun. No way as well insulated. And, when you hop in, you want it cool inside within a minute. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I hope that can keep up. Maybe insulate your cab and ceramic tint all windows and film the front? The factory unit is 3x more powerful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Installed the floor mats where the driver and passenger sit. I found the box cutter and some Fiskars heavy scissors forked really well. These scissors. Fiskars 710150-1001 PowerArc... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU7C7MZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Final product painted. Still wet in picture. Will tonight. I think it looked better with two colors. I should have skipped using a sharpie, then I would have left it unpainted. I had some glue on the pin dots, so I could not clean them off.

I bought some stuff from this guy and sourced a bunch off eBay and other SS members. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/air-conditioner-install-using-waterloo-parts.211293/ The owner of Waterloo is on here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“Stamoid silver 3/4" bias binding. Source at Sailrite.com or anywhere on the web” Above is the response I got from the company. I used silver color because I am painting my hump grey. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I rebuilt and repurposed the winch/accessory harness. see post here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/custom-winch-wiring.211619/ After install, there was room, but barely to get everything connected. Hopefully when I fire this thing up, I will be officially done with this...

Updated instructions above to explain the procedure of heating better. This was not per the instructions, but per the boat cover makers instructions. It worked great.

My evaporator does not have that one. Have to think about what I want to do here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, I can ask though. It was given to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the adhesive. HH-66 Vinyl Cement, 8 oz. can -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUB5JOA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

All, just posting what I did to fix my seams on my rubber jump mat. The threads were snapping loose and the seams were starting to split. I asked a local boat cover maker to sew the seams back, but her machine was not big enough to fit under, so she gave free advice and some vinyl seam tape...