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Air conditioning for a m1083

mrjeffa

Member
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28
13
Location
Texas
I want to put air conditioning in my 1998 m1083 6x6, what is the best option? Gen 2 upgrade running off the motor, or a back unit 24 volt, I only have heat now.
 

Hummer Guy

Well-known member
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807
93
Location
United States Louisiana
I want to put air conditioning in my 1998 m1083 6x6, what is the best option? Gen 2 upgrade running off the motor, or a back unit 24 volt, I only have heat now.
An underdash A/C kit can work, I'm currently installing a 24v A/C kit in a BRDM 2, fully electric compressor. Knowing the M1083 cab isn't that big inside, it should be able to keep you cool
 

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mrjeffa

Member
23
28
13
Location
Texas
Thanks for that information, I purchased 2 pallets of sound deadening covers, I thought it was stick on, but it's thicker than expected I was expecting to put it in the truck. but end up purchasing something newer so if you know somebody that needs it have 2 pallets of it they are 40 by 40 x 48 I think. 3/8 think.

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Hummer Guy

Well-known member
843
807
93
Location
United States Louisiana
Thanks for that information, I purchased 2 pallets of sound deadening covers, I thought it was stick on, but it's thicker than expected I was expecting to put it in the truck. but end up purchasing something newer so if you know somebody that needs it have 2 pallets of it they are 40 by 40 x 48 I think. 3/8 think.

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I'm pretty sure there would be someone on here that's interested, I'm thinking about getting the stick-on insulation as well
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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5,312
113
Location
Portland, OR
I want to put air conditioning in my 1998 m1083 6x6, what is the best option? Gen 2 upgrade running off the motor, or a back unit 24 volt, I only have heat now.
The engine mounted compressor units are absurdly powerful. They can drop ambient temps of 130 down to 75 in the cab with the gunner hatch open. They have a rating of 33,000 BTU apparently.
 

mrjeffa

Member
23
28
13
Location
Texas
That is what I want, found the whole system on ebay, 4800.00, only have to run the ac lines, hi pressure, and low pressure. But it comes with the end connectors.

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Third From Texas

Well-known member
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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
33K BTU , 24v, industrial setup right here.

You'd need pully and compressor bracket (both can be found on eBay as well).

So the question is can you find the pulley and bracket for under $2500? LOL

 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,777
6,529
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Sean Fulner runs the one out of the HMMWV in his LMTV. They pop up on GP from time-to-time but can get into bid wars that push them into the stupid category.

They can also be sourced civilian. Also would need bracket and pulley.

 

ramdough

Well-known member
1,554
1,729
113
Location
Austin, Texas
I bought some stuff from this guy and sourced a bunch off eBay and other SS members.


The owner of Waterloo is on here.


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ramdough

Well-known member
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113
Location
Austin, Texas
I will be doing a full insulation of the cab. This unit is 13500 BTU. The factory unit is 40,000 BTU? Thats bigger than my house AC unit which is 36,000 BTU...
But, your house is way better insulated and the hvac is always on maintaining temperature.

Your truck will be 150 degrees and in the sun. No way as well insulated. And, when you hop in, you want it cool inside within a minute.


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Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,777
6,529
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
I hope that can keep up. Maybe insulate your cab and ceramic tint all windows and film the front?

The factory unit is 3x more powerful.


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I had my doubts, as well.

One of the guys on the FB group documented his install and ran one in the cab all summer. Said after seeing days in the 100's he was pleased. He swears up and down it more than fits his cooling needs in the cab (he did insulate the cab well). He was installing two in his habitat for dual-zones.

I must admit, bolting this up to the wall, drilling two hole, and charging the system...is a LOT easier than ripping out the dash, tearing into the engine fan and pulley, installing the compressor bracket, crawling under the truck to bolt up the heavy condenser, etc, etc. Two-hours of casual work vs two days of knuckle busting. I get the appeal...

And you could buy six of these kits for the price of one OEM unit these days.

Having 30K BTU in the cab is the military way. Zero insulation and 3x what's really needed to cool/heat is how the gubermint does it. They did the same thing with the 30BTU diesel heater for the M1079 box (that is one big thermal bridge, so needed the power)..
 

ramdough

Well-known member
1,554
1,729
113
Location
Austin, Texas
I had my doubts, as well.

One of the guys on the FB group documented his install and ran one in the cab all summer. Said after seeing days in the 100's he was pleased. He swears up and down it more than fits his cooling needs in the cab (he did insulate the cab well). He was installing two in his habitat for dual-zones.

I must admit, bolting this up to the wall, drilling two hole, and charging the system...is a LOT easier than ripping out the dash, tearing into the engine fan and pulley, installing the compressor bracket, crawling under the truck to bolt up the heavy condenser, etc, etc. Two-hours of casual work vs two days of knuckle busting. I get the appeal...

And you could buy six of these kits for the price of one OEM unit these days.

Having 30K BTU in the cab is the military way. Zero insulation and 3x what's really needed to cool/heat is how the gubermint does it. They did the same thing with the 30BTU diesel heater for the M1079 box (that is one big thermal bridge, so needed the power)..
I really hope it works out. That would open the door for a lot of folks. Those units are on par with the minisplits people are installing. That would be a pretty slick thing of you had enough solar.


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