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2 possible places for power to normally go from the batteries. 24 volts to the bus bar on the passenger side firewall. From the rear battery positive terminal. 12 volts to the diamond shaped bus bar next to the master cylinder on the small red wire from the back battery negative terminal...

No need for Od as posted above. A good running OA331 will out speed the brakes on that truck just fine on flat ground or going down hill. You will be down shifting going up hill no matter which transmission you have. Only 1 gear is different between the direct drive and OD transmission...

I don't like referring people between web sites, but in this case the Zone will have the exact part numbers and lots of threads about the correct master cylinder.

Yes, the stock engine is great in that truck. However, some engine parts are not available at a reasonable price if you can find them any more. That is why I swapped mine out. First to a 396 big block and then to the 6.2 diesel. I too want as much of my fleet to be diesel as possible for...

They did not come as dump beds. Someone did that to yours. The brakes can can be made to work very well with stock parts which are available. Or, several combinations of other parts can be made to work just as well or better. I have a corvette master cylinder on mine with Ford E350 wheel...

I have 4 non turbo 6.2 vehicles on the road currently. 2 M1009 trucks with stock gears, a M715 with 5.87 gears and a 2wd Suburban with 3.42 gears. Each one is different in how it drives and the power it feels like it makes and when it makes it. The two M1009 trucks feel totally different...

Brazos valley off road ranch in Bryan. We historically have the place to ourselves. Lots of room for camping and trails to run. We are getting pretty close to 10years of this now. I plan to to be there Lincoln. Thanks again for doing the leg work.

That was a good job by all involved. Thanks for posting.

All of the above suggestions are good. Since we are basically in the same area I wanted to pass on a few M1009 driving experiences of my own. Stock M1009 with a receiver hitch and 33x12.50 BFG AT tires. Pulling a 2,000 pound flat bed trailer with nothing on it I can go any speed I like. I...

I'm in the 15 mm swivel socket with a long extension under the intake runner for #1 and a box end wrench for the other two bolts group. I don't think I am in the "hundreds" yet for timing adjustments, but I know I am in the "dozens" of times category. It works. If you don't have swivel...

Look in the valley under the intake too. If the IP is leaking, the valley will be wet. There is a drain at the back of the valley for the fuel to run out. By the time the leaking fuel gets to the ground, it looks like oil. If you park nose down, the fuel won't drain out.

That bolt under the #1 cylinder is a constant problem on 2 of my trucks. They all work loose. I have torqued to spec, used Threadlocker Red, torqued beyond spec, tried lock washers, etc... Now I just check it every time I check the oil. That and the two bolts for the starter motor support...

I started with 3 pretty much complete Suburbans interior wise. 2 3/4 tons and a 1/2 ton. I built a 3/4 ton that had at least 200K miles on it and the interior was super nasty. Also, the wrong color. The other 3/4 ton had a blue interior that has good seats and carpet. That truck is my back...

If the blowby goes away as soon as you give it some throttle. That means your CDR is working properly. As I understand their function that is.

More driving and driving. I should hit 4,000 miles on the way home tonight. Yesterday was a 175 mile day. 40° outside temp with rain and strong wind. I set the cruise at 75 and just let it eat up the miles. Very stable at that speed in wet, nasty conditions. The transmission temperature...

Where exactly are you? That master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced. They are cheap, so pick up a new one.

I also made a claim the day this thread came out. Replacement showed up a week ago. Thanks for starting this thread.

Stop! What glow plugs do you have? Unless they are Delco 60G glow plugs. Holding more than 10 seconds can cause them to burn out, swell or even explode inside the pre cup. You can do 10 seconds, but I wouldn't do anymore. Have you replaced the glow plugs yet? 10mm socket and a cold engine...

The first start of the day takes 5-10 seconds of cranking is what you started this thread with. Is there any smoke out the exhaust once it does start? Greasy looking and smelling white/gray smoke indicates fuel but no heat. Glow plugs. No smoke of any kind and the engine running smooth...

Timing chains don’t break all that often. I can’t remember ever even reading about a broken 6.? Timing chain. Stretch, yes. But they still run fine. How is does your harmonic balancer look when the engine is running? Wobble?