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The "amplification" is to the voltage, yes. But at the same time, there is a reduction in amperage available by at least the same ratio as the amplification. I say at least because as stated before, there are always losses.
What should be measured is power in watts (volts times amps...
That looks great. Looks like some camo paint is in order. Did you have to modify the camper at all to mount it? It does look like you had to cut the dropsides, right?
I have had good luck on lenses by sanding and then spraying with clearcoat. I wet-sand with 600 to 800 to provide bite for the paint. I then spreay with automotive grade clearcoat in a spray can from the auto parts store. It takes less than ten minutes and the results are dramatic. It works for...
I did a little car crushing this past weekend. It was at a nationwide 4x4 parts store. It helps to crush the cars in pairs. This was two pairs. Once I was up there, I stayed for a while as it was a great place to watch other activities and there was a nice cross-wind. The two Jeeps then used a...
I trailered my deuce from Ft. Hood to El Paso using a gooseneck and an F450. The cruise was mostly at 50-60 mph and the only issue was the fuel cost. Diesel was north of 4 bucks a gallon then.
I am just east of EP and there are a few other members out here, just in case you need something...
I have fabricated my own bows using round stock and flat washers. Just need to tack weld the washer to the round after bending. I actually made some a little longer than the one original I had to help tighten up the soft top a bit.
Just off the top of my head, I'd say mine are equally spaced front and rear. If there is a taper, it is virtually unnoticeable. At least nowhere near as tapered as the cab floor. Do you have the soft top? It should have loops for passing the bows and that should indicate the spacing for your...
I always defer to a pair or two of vise-grips even to prevent rounding. As mentioned before, real vise-grips - as in, that specific brand. There is no substitute.
Technically, not true. First off, it is 150 pounds per square inch (psi) not pounds (lbs.), different units. Second, while it does weigh almost the same given that the tank weight is much greater than the captive air weight, there is a difference. Air does have weight and more air weight more...
There may be a small change available if the linkage from the injector pump to the tranny is misadjusted. Otherwise, it is easier to change the engine governed speed than the trans shift point. What rpm is it shifting at?
The data plate says you can shift the transfer case into low when below 20 MPH and you have to shift to neutral before the T-case lever will move so I do not think damage would result. It also infers that a competent driver should be able to do that safely.
Threads about converting tranny...
I think you will have a heck of a time putting it back on in one piece. You have to individually guide the staves into the pockets at exactly the right height. I'm not saying it can't be done, I just questioning whether it will save effort in the long run (remove and reinstall).
I have removed...
Data I have indicates 1.00:1 final drive ratio, 0.732:1 t-case hi range, and 6.44:1 final drive ratios.
You can also use tire rollout (circumference), final drive ratio, and of course, your target speed.
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