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Permetex black (oil resistant) has worked well for me for my 12 hub swaps

Got to try out the spring setup and results are....great! Went to the same spot and flexed out the truck as much as I am likely too. Front springs compressed the most, to about 80% of available travel. Tried some "evasive driving" to see if I could get the box to rock but it wouldn't. Still...

686 lbf Currently have 15 per side, 7 front, 8 rear, 5 channels in the middle are bare for now.

Using a link system does have it's place, however I don't see many benefits in this type of box setup. Max it can shift now is only about 1mm. I'd rather have that level of control than if I do a link system since there's a swing arc and that means I would have to have larger through holes to...

Moving forward with an internal frame setup so I don't have any thermal bridges. Unistrut compatible framing from Menards was on sale, 12% off. Installing and testing the spring compliance setup. Tough to see on the camera but jacking up the box lifts the frame a lot, I'll get the rest installed...

Do you have a part number for the AC you are using? If not, BTU specs?

Agreed, not as likely but he did mention welding so I figured I'd throw it out there

I thought that was for the switch for soldiers in the bed?

Curious to find out what the problem is. I had some strange issues with mine and went down a similar course. Ended up with two issues, front CTIS pressure line to the hubs were porus and leaking through the hose itself and also a faulty relief valve on pcu.

Nearly all of the ECU/ECM manufacturers require them to be disconnected when welding. HETs actually have a chart listing it on their door. Hopefully it's not an electrical issue, but if I have to do welding on my truck again I'm going to make sure to disconnect all the ECUs and ECMs as they are...

How did you end up fixing the crack?

Yes a spring will likely work just fine too (with the stock gear). That said, finding one would be difficult in this size. Springs obviously compress so you still have a risk that it could compress enough to release the pin lock. Likely? No but something to be aware of. The CTE mismatch really...

These things are often a gamble (just like all the fmtv electronic parts I buy on eBay and sometimes get screwed on). Sometimes you get lucky sometimes not. I haven't ventured into the heater stuff yet but it's on my long list of things to do

Considering his spare is no longer there I bet it's pretty good.

That doesn't jive with my experience, same situation mine will roll down my driveway in neutral and engine running. I do have some drag but I think it's from a sticky brake.

Considered it, but went with a bolt together solution. M6 screws that can be taken off from inside cab.

I am an engineer :) The angle iron is 3/16 while the shipping container c channel is 1/8. The shipping container deflected. It's a really complicated issue, where to add stiffness, compliance, high/low tensile, etc. I have all the tools to make FEA models but garbage in garbage out. Much...

I should have taken a picture when flexed as it was more dramatic, but there is still some small amount of plastic deformation in the area of the forwardmost bolt shown. None of the others have any plastic deformation. I have ordered springs, bolts, washers for all 30 tie in locations to replace...

I like playing devil's advocate and since we have a lot against the 2:1 I'll give some advantages of keeping them: 1. 1/2 the torque on your drivetrain components upstream of the hubs. In extreme scenarios you are way less likely to break something. 2: It takes much less time for engine to get...

That was someone else's. Mine had abs light on with no codes, weird reading for battery voltage, and wouldn't respond to modulator tests. Looked like a small amount of water got in a messed things up.