Search results

I suspected as much, and that makes perfect sense, but have no observation to support it:)

A Scangauge D may also read the 3126 fault codes off the J1939 databus, as well as the engine data(hp, fuel consumption, temps ect). The RV community who use the 3126 have used them. I have one for OBD scangauge 2 I have used for years. It is cool because it is user programmable. I was...

Wouldn't even need a weatherproof box. Cut the connector at the tank and Install the 90-120PSI air compressor sw at the normal location at the tank and install new connections on the end of the wiring harness and weatherproof them to the switch. Splice the relay into the CTIS wiring harness...

Yea its not OBD2… These use commercial automotive hardware and software to talk to the systems on the 3126/C7 trucks, or something like a prolink or the Allison software on a laptop with a communications interface to talk to the trans on the older 3116 trucks…

Thats a tough one. Like the alternators, It is a pretty specific component, and the bandits know it. Thats why I like to throw out cost effective alternatives whenever I can:) The CTIS sw closes at 117 and doesn’t open again until 89PSI. But there are inexpensive off the shelf 90-120 PSI air...

Cool!

The switch is on the top 2way checkvalve under the drivers floor. The switch is easiest accessed behind the grill on the drivers side. 66PSI Haldex normally closed brake switch…

Oh, if it has the C7 engine then you have what is known as an A1R… you did say it was a 2005? I should have asked… Yes, different control circuit, but still a lot in common with the older A1 circuit. I believe it uses a module associated with the MMDC(gauge controller) to deliver the oil...

When analizing a circuit you need to decide if it is bad, or if it is being told to do its job improperly(garbage in = garbage out). If you find the short/path to ground on pin 85 of K11 is from that latch circuit, I would also confirm that there is NO voltage on the source/sensing side of...

Ok, now I remember that circuit. On the A1 they simplified things a little by combining the starter lockout and alternator excite function onto K11. When K11 is energized, the starter is enabled, the alternator is disabled. When K11 de-energizes above 15PSI oil pressure, the starter gets...

It will be between oil sw and K11. One side of the K11 coil gets power from the neutral relay, the other side goes to ground thru the oil pressure sw like the dash light does. When you go over 15PSI oil pressure that sw opens turning off the dash light and breaking the circuit to K11...

K11 deenergized contacts provides the enable power to the regulator, so it will NOT charge without it in place. It probably also wont allow the LBCD to get an RPM signal from the reg to illuminate the No charge light if that is all you are using to gauge if it is charging or not... I think...

That will do it:)

Well if you disconnected the wire from the rear reg terminal and that didnt fix the overvolt, and your alt isnt making any voltage with the regulator disconnected completely, you probably only need a regulator... There is a troubleshooting tree in the neihoff manual that will help you confirm this.

Yes it vents out the bottom. It is a remote pressure regulator it matches the outlet port pressures to the input pressure by either passing input to output, or venting output out that bottom vent. Your problem sounds like your front gladhands are capped? They must be vented. 2ways take in...

Thats a weird looking 2way. Where exactly was it located? Whats on the bottom side? On an LMTV the closest(and only) 2ways to the bumper are located in behind the drivers step up under the drivers floor. 3 in a row, to interface the front glad-hands to the park, primary and secondary brake...

Thats kind of surprising, it is usually the 12v batts that are toast as the A0 has a 12v vampire and because of the lighting loads, the 12v side has trouble fully recharging with the undersized alternator. 4 wet cell 6T batts is way too much for the 100A dual volt alt. Anything AGM even more...

The battery connected to ground on its neg terminal is the 0-12 battery. The jumper from its + terminal to the neg terminal of the 12-24 battery(series jumper) is where you connect the 12v line. It can connect to either end of the series jumper(+ terminal on 0-12 or neg terminal on 12-24 batt)...

There should be a diagram inside the box lid, all the trucks are basically the same...

Where is the 12v lead hooked now? If you have four group 31s installed like the original 6T batteries. I suspect all 4 batteries are tied together (+-+-) in the middle. That is where 12 is connected. Ground is typically furthest from the frame. 12 is where the outer 0-12 batt + terminal...