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Yes on the earlier A1, it has a temp sensor to limit it above a certain temp. Not sure where it is located on the 3126. On my A0 it was a coolant sensor and opened the circuit above about 35F. Have seen conflicting temp ratings for the switch. If it is going clunk when you cycle the switch...

Group 31 is typically between 900 and 950 CCA(0F) and are over 1100 at 32F and above. ~100AH@20hr rated capacity. My 3116 pulls a brief peak of 290A and a sustained 157A while cranking. That was engine cold at about 60F. Cold thick oil would bump this up a little. Heat is your friend…...

Yep, thats what I use also…

In the manual there is a hinging test that uses a dial indicator and magnetic base at a particular location on one side and reaches across to measure the movement at a specific spot on the other side while installed. You zero the dial then push up on the shaft and measure the displacement. It...

But when combined with the truck loads, still too much load/hard on the alternator if they get behind. A pair of 31’s is what Cat specced for the equipment that use these engines…

Well the brake lights you can simply hardwire. They dont actually get powered till you step on the pedal. They are always hot on most vehicles. the ignition switch actually switches a ground path to energize the ignition relays. You will have to pickoff the park/TS power from the output of the...

Hopefully nothing is getting drained, The engine bell housing shouldn't have anything in it. You put the plug in the hole if you expect to go into water. The housing itself is not particularly easy to keep sealed, so they made it easy to drain/leave open with a handy place to store the plug…

It is the pigtail connector J52 for the inter-vehicular connector seen in your pic between the left headlight and the left towing shackle…

Well send me your Evap and I will send you my heater assembly as I don’t need that hole anymore:)

Big hole, hard to mis…

There is a drain plug back there on the bottom of the bell housing on a cover plate. It also has a threaded hole to store the drain plug when removed. Is that plug hole open?

Under the power panel cover there is a diagram with all the breaker amp ratings and relay part numbers. I don’t think there is a breaker 75, at least not on my diagram…

I dont think it goes all the way under by the gas pedal. I think it turns toward the rear just before that, under the park and trailer air controls and comes out a hole in the side of the box below the park control. Then it goes around that front corner and right up to the side of the CTIS...

Which side is the drip on?

Just so you are aware, the 31s are not exactly plug and play, fitting them into the box without removing the base plate is a little tricky, but a pair will fit if placed carefully.

I just broke down the reasoning for the battery bank sizing in this discussion post #11 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/new-ride.212333/

When you have the ECU scanned to identify that CEL fault, see if they can also copy the engine personality files. The ECUs they used in these 3126s have been known to have their internal keep alive battery fail. When this happens the ECU is bricked and must be replaced. You will want a copy...

At ~225AH, the 8Ds are only a slightly smaller bank than the 240AH that the four 6T batts create. still way too much for the dual volt alt to support properly. Around 100AH is a much better match for the alternator, So a pair of the 6Ts(120AH, NOT AGM), a pair of 31’s at 100AH, a pair of group...

Yea the installed wiring between batt and alt is only good for about 200A.

Yea the manual is full of errors/omissions. I forget which port/sender is which. I removed my senders and installed a dual needle mechanical and standalone low pressure switches when I did my dash makeover so I have no way to check more easily than you can… The simple way to check is to drain...