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As long as you only feed 24 to the starter motor and not the rest of the 12v circuitry:)

Breaking the 12 and 24 circuits would be my prefered method... same as they do the manual and remote disconnects on tge A1s

Sort of. If you only disconnect ground you will still have a difference of potential between any 12 and 24 circuits. The polarity protection device prevents any reverse flow from 24 thru any 12v circuits, but if you are working on anything there is still potential present in the circuitry.

There are three 24v leads. One is from the nato plug, one goes to the polarity protection device/alternator and one goes to the starter solenoid. So those 3 leads will need to go to the + terminal of the innermost battery. There is only one 12v lead and it can get connected to either end of...

if it is pulsing one battery, it may be raising and lowering the one battery in relation to the other. The equalizer would see this and might try and equalize to the ever changing conditions. This might stress the equalizer and would most likely blunt/negate any benefit the pulsing might provide…

Yea you can see its 24v counterpart taped over in the upper left behind the innermost hawker. The quick fix to clean this up is get 2 thru-bolt battery terminals for the ground and 24v terminals. Ditch the 4 terminal cable and one of the 2 terminal cables. Use the other 2 terminal cable to...

Well that is all you really need to do to convert to two batts, remove two of the old ones. so yes it looks like they converted to 2 and left 2 of the hawkers in place.

what NDT said, they hooked up a new set in the rear two bays and disconnected the ground and 24v terminals on the hawkers. Just send it:) or pull the hawkers and see if they can be salvaged and insulate the two terminals on that cable that are attached to them…

I am not sure how a pulse maintainer will play with the equalizer. I havebeen using a small equalizer and a simple buck converter supply on a solar panel for a few years now and it worked great. I no longer have a 12v vampire load:(

Negative compensation means it lowers output as temp increases. Hot lead acid batteries absorb energy differently than cold ones. So above 75F it starts to reduce output voltage so as not to overload/overwhelm the batteries and evap electrolyte. Even the cheap smart chargers you buy do this...

No problem, but it is considered poor form to hijack a thread… On the FMTV page you will find a button called “post thread”. Click that, fill in the subject and your question then you will find a “post reply” button at the bottom.

Instead of resurrecting a 4 year old thread that has nothing to do with your problem, how about you start a new thread with your problem in the title. please include the year and model truck, and I will be happy to try and help you…

Well the alt really is not in an engine compartment on an LMTV... so even with the batteries remotely located they still see similar ambient temperatures and temp compensation from a regulator sensor is still relevant in a warm climate To help protect the batteries. Thats not an LMTV...

Yea those videos are pretty cool:)

Most alternators have some form of temp compensation built into their regulator circuit. It is not so much about the alt getting too warm as it is about the batteries being overcharged when warm. Most auto applications have the batteries in the engine compartment, so putting the thermal...

None of the trucks came with active suspension. They did some tests with active suspension, but I am not aware of any actually being fielded…

Pretty sure the sensor is in the regulator as there are no wiring shown for a temp sensor between reg and alt chassis on any of the diagrams. The air blower is on the rear. It creates suction and draws air thru the alternator chassis front to rear…

I like Deccas and interstates. The Hawkers are good batteries. If yours loadtest ok I would stick with the best pair of them untill they drop. I should add that the group 31s are not simply plug and play. They are taller and don’t fit as well under the lid with the recesses. Group 27’s will...

As Tomtime mentioned, thats why i asked if you have an oil idiot light. K11 must energize to power the start circuit. But if you jumpered K11 pin 30 to 87 that should have powered the start circuit the same as K11 would… that is of course provided you have a valid circuit. Back to rule one...

I thought this was a starting problem?