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The aux trans fan runs in parallel with the engine fan...

And since it locked up so readily, you probably have a bad 2way check valve. with full air, have someone step on the brake pedal while you observe how much air is leaking out the front blue service glad-hand. That lost air is not going toward braking and is depleting your braking air supply...

I highly doubt that, and I don’t think it was done to warm the trans. A diesel at idle doesn’t put all that much heat into the cooling system. That is one of the reasons it is difficult to get an engine to warm just by itself. If heating a transmission is your goal, there are far more...

You could use a bypass type thermostat to automate the bypass mixing, but it would add restriction to the system. A full diameter bypass would not, and you could be sure it is all the way open when you dont need it... it would be easy enough to control from the cab with a cable...

There of course is also a plumbing option. You put a T in the upper radiator pipe and a pipe section across and down to a 3way bypass valve in the lower radiator line. The valve would control the percentage of water allowed to pass thru the radiator/forced to bypass the radiator...

Well you would need to provide that gap at the top and perhaps some guide rails along the front side edges of the radiator. I think I woukd want a way to tune it vis having a bunch of different covers. Perhaps a roll-up cover at the bottom that you pull up in front of the radiator along...

Yea that sounds about right for a 3116. It basically sends all the engine heat to the transmission. Below about 65F outside air temp, Untill the transmission warms and starts generating heat, the engine wont even get warm enough to open the thermostat. You can see thw cold weather radiator...

Most diesels are happiest approaching 200F. Maintaining a temp above the thermostat opening point(178F) is good as it means it is controlling temp with a steady coolant flow thru the radiator. Thats a good thing. That being said The way they plumbed the 3116 makes it notoriously cold...

At those temps, Over the grill or a smaller panel slid up just in front of the intercooler. You will want something you can “tune”, like the snapped on covers with zippered panels you see on semi trucks in winter. Ideally you want to limit air cooling capacity to the point where the thermostat...

It depends on what you expect it to do when you switch the valve to "vent"? If you expect it to deflate the tires, then no. You need at least 5-6 psi on the system to hold the wheel valves open. If you expect it to vent and close wheel valves, then yes providing it can flow enough air fast...

The thermostat doesn’t know what temperature it is outside And it being at the end of the hot side, it will repeatedly close the barn door after the horse has escaped. Repeated heat and cooling cycles from 180F to possibly below freezing is not conducive to long engine life. Diesels do best...

In this case those diodes protect the control transisiors in that control module at the end. Those are not traditional relays if I understand the theory of that module. They are bi state relays, so they receive a current pulse from the controller to either open or close and will then rest in...

I don’t know how effective an external one would be unless you can block that big gap between radiator and intercooler at the bottom. I was thinking about one in 3 or 4 parts with some perimeter components permanently installed. of course this would be easier if they didn’t put the gladhands...

While you are doing connections, do the starter as well. Your main ground goes from the battery to the terminal on the front of the starter motor. From there you will find a ground strap that connects the battery ground to the drivers frame. That is your main chassis ground. When you were...

Oh great pics! Mine had a really long bug leg or a thick horse hair in it when I got my truck. Was one of the first things I had to fix to get the primer working… That flapper is the normal entrance pathway into the filter for fuel when the engine is running. The lift pump moves a pretty...

It actually says it around the ring on the primer. Open drain and pump bulb to discharge water… ideally you should open the drain and nothing should happen Until you pump the bulb. if you open the drain and it sucks air back in, the flapper bypass valve is leaking and fuel is running back...

Did you ever bypass AND measure voltages? If the disconnect is bypassed, whether it clicks or not makes no difference. I would bypass the disconnect module, and both the ignition relays at the same time. Things may start clicking but that is just a symptom of voltage loss. Start at the...

With all diesels I start with the basics first. Fuel is life… What does the primer bulb feel like? If the system is full of fuel like it should be, the primer should be firm from the start as you should be hydraulically pushing against the pressure regulator at the far end of the system from...

Any luck? What I think you are experiencing is the same thing that hapoens when you kink a garden hose. You will have full pressure(voltage) all the way to the nozzle at the end of the hose, untill you open the nozzle. Then the pressure at the nozzle drops off drastically as you try and flow...

The vehicle speed sensor is in the transfer case. That sensor is processed thru the transmission control unit which then delivers it to the speedometer and CTIS. I suspect that as mentioned, your CTIS is programmed for a different military vehicle with a different pulse per mile rate than...