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Hokay... That's 3 hours of my life I'll never get back. I replaced the cold advance switch yesterday afternoon, engine blew white diesel smoke, cranked and cranked, but no start. Temp was about 40 degrees. Well, I'd planned on replacing the glowplugs anyway, so that was today: First 7...

Thanks. I've got a Nartron smart start sytem, mfr-32498. Beast started right up when temps were 50-70, now it cranks several seconds and blows white smoke briefly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for posting this. I'm troubleshooting the same/similar issue. Hard starting in cold weather, blows out unburnt fuel for a few seconds, warms up, very smooth running after about a minute. Remembered a "smashed switch" I glanced at in the right rear of the engine when I was putting a new...

There're two upright tabs at the rear of the rack aligned with the straps. They're clearer in the second photo. These go up and behind the bumper when the clamps are shut and prevent the rack from sliding.

Amazing. I imagine the HMMWV jack with the stud on top would work even better. I'll give it a try. THANK YOU. Norm

Finally got the backup lights wired in - running off 12V battery right now - working on a switch panel for the "dash" - I'll post pics of that when it's complete/mounted.

Got 'em on my birthday list (January). Thanks for the update. Norm

I've PM'd you. Thanks. Norm

Thank you. I kind of figured this was the way they'd work, just couldn't find a picture on the website. Norm.

Thanks. Is it aluminum or steel? Tubing should bend less than the coat hanger-metal they used first generation, no?

D'oh! Meant to add this. Looks like something COULD be cobbled up, holes seem to be in the right place, but the cable guide/rollers are in the way of the lower bracket.

Welp, NOT the neutral switch. NOT the battery cables. NOT something left loose nor the ground wire harness misapplied. It's the STARTER switch. Doing circuit tracing and looked at the back of the switch where one of the wires plugged in is cracked. The rubber plug is. Jiggled the plug...

Cool. Please show photos when you have them mounted. Mfr says "Simply remove the wheel, use the bolt holes as guides and reinstall the wheel. Steer axle balancers mount between the hub and wheel, while balancers for the duals mount between the dual wheels." Uh, sure. doesn't look/seem...

because I've seen it listed several ways. I've got a standard 1st generation brush guard which would look pretty good sand blasted and painted, but I'd like a stronger bumper. H1 looks like a possibility, EARLY H1 brush guards said to fit early Humvees, not sure I want to take a gamble, plus...

Um, no. Hemostats and forceps are not necessarily the same thing. There are many different kinds, types, shapes. It's like saying needle nose pliers and vise grips are the same 'cause they grip. aua

Reading through this, thinking I may possibly face this in future as I plan on replacing the glow plugs in my truck - giving it a thorough going over and figure hey, what the heck, I have NO clue how well this vehicle was maintained for the past 34k miles, I'll pull 'em anyway to check their...

Been there, seen that, looks a LOT like mine. ;) I blew about $30 and bought the gaskets/rubber boot to replace it all when I open it up eventually to clean/lube. Switch I don't have, but will troubleshoot shortly.

Yeah, curious that this started RIGHT after I put new batteries in. Working voltage was 25.2. At full charge I was showing 25.8V having the system on a solargizer 24v charger (plugged into slave port - I pull it when I'm going to start the beast), I DID have the light switch in the "DIM"...

EXACTLY the answer I was looking for. EZPZ. I'll do that second.

Zombie post warning: Changed out batteries a few weeks ago - optima yellow tops, I've posted pics elsewhere - truck fired RIGHT up. What is that, 1700 CCA? Compared to the date-code label-less toyota batteries with a combined 750 CCA the seller put in there (I knew I'd need upgrades), wowza...