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I would recommend replacing the stock muffler and not adding to it. You want to keep as much heat energy and velocity in the exhaust as possible to discourage soot, oil, unburned fuel, and moisture from coming together and creating a mess in the muffler. For the same reasons its not advisable...

The muffler makes virtually zero. The ASK will reduce it a reasonable amount. If I were to guess I would say around 6db. My 003 had the ASK and it was VERY noticeable when you removed any of the access panels with it running.

The Group 51 batts are one of the best choices for the 80x series machines. For the 00x series machines you have more options. I use marine starting batteries. They are cheap and easy to find. I modified the hold-down bracket slightly to better fit them but it wasn't a challenge.

I should have added - Consider using one of the marine starting batteries such as a Group 24M. You can find them cheaper and they should be more tolerant to vibration.

Any reason why you want to use Group 51?

Paralleling for this generator would have to be a feature built into the inverter. The engine speed has no effect on output frequency. That is good and bad. Good since we can run the engine at a RPM to give good power and fuel burn characteristics for a specific load. Bad because now its not so...

Don't do it running. :razz: Sorry, couldn't resist. The main thing is to make sure all power is off before doing the work. Hopefully all the wires are clearly labeled. One of the tricks I do is to run a strip of tape down both sides of all the wires which helps keep them in order. Double and...

Its usually around 48 hours.

Man, that exhaust valve didn't take long to coke up. Have you tried to clean them up? It doesn't look like there is any damage there. If they clean up ok and seal let's hope on the next run the rings wear in and seal up a bit better. I wonder if the crankcase pressure was a bit high and that was...

That looks like you were burning a good bit of oil. Was your oil level dropping? I'm going to have to take a better look at the photos after work.

That is about the end of what I can suggest. The next step for me would be to pull the head and look at the valves and seats.

That is pretty unusual. This may sound odd but... Try tapping the valve stem with a hammer. You want to give them a nice pop against the seat. See if that seals them back up. Edit - You can do it with the air pressure on the cylinder. It will make some noise when it pops open then closed.

Ouch. Can you determine the source? Valves or piston??

Nope. Don't keep trying to start it. Can you pop out the injector and use your air injection thingie to see where the leak is?

I have had several that were exactly as you report, start fine then become unstable. Every one of them was a bad controller. Swap in a known good controller and all is well.

My money is on a bad controller.

Edit - defer to post below.

Not unusual. How long did you let it run loaded? The smoke should have tapered off as the rings wear in. Did you set the gaps on the rings?

Yea, they dip the coil in varnish once its wound to increase its durability. That stuff burns off pretty easily with a torch. Think small pocket torch and not a blowtorch. I've been wanting to find out where the joint was physically located on the coil. It should be accessible since it would...

Great news. One of the things I personally do for a first start is I set the valves a few thousands looser than spec. I don't run the engine very long on its first start. Maybe 1-2 minutes. I will then go back and check valve lash and set it to spec.