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Its true that in a perfect world there would be no imbalance. Anytime you allow single phase loads on a multi-phase source you WILL have phase load imbalances. What this does is causes uneven heating in coils and higher neutral currents. Normally this is a bad thing. If the generator was wound...
Agreed that it isn't the best scenario. But in the world of you run what you got.. Thats how it goes. The reality is that in a residential backup situation we aren't going to run these machines hard or long. Sure, and imbalance is bad. Its worse for a machine that runs at high loads for long...
If you connect it up that way it will be 208v. The power will be 120 degree out of phase instead of 180 degrees. That will be ok for most things but anything with a 240v motor will run hotter than normal. Any of the 120v loads will see normal power. I expect you already understand that you will...
http://www.governors-america.com/documents/PIB1007%20A%20SLC100%203%20kW%20Gen%20Set.pdf
There is the setup for the governor. You can ask them about buying a new one.
If you are doing a single phase connection it will be a 4-wire setup. Using industry standard color codes your two load wires will be black and red. The blue will only be used for 3-phase 5-wire setups. White is neutral and green/bare is ground.
For sure switch them out as a test. You can buy new ones for a few hundred dollars. They have recently become available.
You can adjust the magnet. That is not likely your problem. Get the surging under control first. Then tweak the magnet only if it doesn't shut down correctly.
One of the things I do is to take the return line at the tank off and put it in a container to see the fuel flow back through the system. It should be a nice steady trickle. You can easily see if you are getting a lot of air or if you have some other problem with fuel flow.
Ok. That means you likely have a blockage in the fuel return line at the end of the hard line.
Its the rubber line that goes back through and into a fitting at the top of the tank. Its a 4mm line if I remember correctly.
Did you check both filters? You have a large one and a small one. The small one is next to the hard line and a real pain to remove. Sounds like the small one is plugged.
I think the lesson for all of us is to be prepared to walk away and demand a refund if what purchased isn't being delivered. For sure its a hard thing to do if you have invested a significant amount of time and effort to get there to pick up the stuff.
If GL has to refund purchases voluntarily...
The actuator if I remember correctly can withstand a good bit more than than 11v. I'm using B+ to drive it (~27v). Since its a PWM output I just clamp the duty cycle on the PWM to limit the current. Ultimately when I'm done I may choose a less expensive driver and put in one an additional power...
Just as a general FYI, I'm using a DC Brushed motor driver to drive the actuator for the custom speed controller I've been working on.
https://www.pololu.com/product/2992
Yea, in the pinned position it should be in that range.
I want to say (from memory) that the mechanical governor needs to have its absolute top speed set for about 3750-3800. With that the electronic governor will be able to push it up to about 3600 without needing too much torque from the...
Lets start with some basic information.
Pull start the engine without turning on the main switch. Make sure the electronic governor arm is free to move (not on the magnet and not "pinned" fully to the right). What RPM does the engine run? It should be a low idle. If it idles at 3600 rpm you...
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