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Looks good to me.

+1.. Good find. That was a fire waiting for an excuse to start.

Can you expand on the lapping comment? We were always taught to lap the valves until you have the correct width contact area (verified by bluing) then stop. You don't lap a valve until it completely covers the seat. That leaves no room for it to wear in over time.

The photos on the forum lack the resolution to really tell but I don't see anything there that looks bad. Grinding seats requires some specialized equipment to do right. Possible to do, sure. I don't think it's practical to do for two valves. If it needs work I would take it to a machine...

If the valve seat area looks ok you may not have to have it ground. Its important that the area be smooth and flat (no rings or grooves or pitting). The valve seat and the valve itself are ground on different angles to ensure they fit together tightly to form a seal. Lapping is used to broaden...

The pitting in the block isn't going to cause the problem. It will be best to buy new valves and dress the valve seats so make sure you get a good seal. A light lapping is OK but you aren't trying to get everything perfectly parallel. You want a thinner contact area to start with so the force...

I looked in the wrong column. Your gap isn't outside the service limit. Just more than standard.

Exactly. That is end gap. You'll see in the manual to check it at the top, middle, and bottom of the cylinder. That will show you how much taper it has.

Per the manual your gap is (Edit) NOT beyond the service limit. Do do you have a copy of the Yanmar L70 manual?

Its hard to tell in the photos if the rings are ok. Being loose is at least a good sign. Can you carefully remove the top ring and push it down into the cylinder? Then measure the gap. That will let you know how much wear you have between the cylinder and ring.

Can you take a photo of the phase switch behind the instrument panel?

I personally like to use a pretty strong solvent like kerosene mixed with a bit of acetone with a stiff brush. You should know the risks of this concoction - This is flammable. You'll need to do it in a well ventilated area. Its not kind to your skin. It is however very effective. You'll need to...

Soak the cylinders with PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil and gently work it back and forth. Hopefully it I'll break free.

I took a quick look through their online inventory and I didn't see any engines. The LPW4 is more of a 20hp engine.

How much of your wallet do you need to have leftover? The price for a LPW4 as a good condition runner can be pretty high. Edit - sorry. No eBay links. My bad. Search ebay and you'll see engines are not cheap. More than I pay for nice fully running generators. Personally I think your best...

I hate to sound like a broken record but.. ;) Have you downloaded the TMs and looked over the wiring diagram? You'll see where the power comes into the panel and which terminals to test. Make sure the DC circuit breaker on the panel is pushed in. Make sure the E-Stop is pulled out. If those...

Wow. Looks great!!! I want to stay there for a weekend. :D:D

You're best bet is to use a amp meter you know works. Once you know how the gauges on the unit read you can use them for general readings to understand whats going on. I wouldn't trust on any of them for accuracy.

Have you downloaded the technical manuals and done any troubleshooting for the overload circuits?

Excellent advice to anyone starting one of these or any other large diesel engine. Have a CO2 extinguisher on hand to kill a runaway.