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On mine the horn is on in both modes flipped to the right: it is NOT on in the BO modes to the left, only to the right.

The horn power is used because the Horn will run in all “regular driving positions” but not in Blackout (BO) mode in the light selector. So if you want reverse lights even in blackout (or if lights are off) you’ll need to find power from somewhere else. The horn is easy, just find the 24V...

There are two types of tachs, one is 4-terminals (+ light - so 5 wires needed) and one has a canon connector. I believe that signals are the same in both cases. In the past the ones with the canon connectors have been less expensive because they require the special connector you might have...

There are some universal cruise control kits that use a throttle cable and probably could be retro fit to replace the hand throttle cable. They often require both a tach (which AFAIK all HMMWVs have) as well as a speed sensor (which may need to be added?). I've never tried them, but definitely...

Same I’m not against non authentic / original parts. But the vendor really needs to say it’s after market and where it was made. That informs the buyer and there are no surprises. With that said I’ve bought from MME and had no issues with what I got, but I also knew what I was buying.

I used the black ones on a 67 Jeep. So far so good. I wouldn’t know if it squeaks due to all of the other rattling and squeezing!

KASCAR and MacMotors are the only places I’ll buy plugs from. It’s terrible there are so many counterfeits and/or deceptive labeled products, only way I know to tell if they are Wellman or not is the 3/8” hex head.

Ya, I have a full set of GS-P axleshafts I got from Summit about a year or so ago. I bought them as spares "just in case". I have no idea what 'lifetime' warranty would even mean (or if it has such a warranty).

I'm trying to figure out if it's worth rebuilding (re-greasing and putting on new boots) or not. Since it's a 7k, I think the only real value would be as an "original part" and MAYBE as a spare half-shaft in case I break the 10k one I just installed. Assuming, I can successfully re-grease and...

One of my rear half shafts the boot tore on the hub side and the rotor side is cracked. I replaced it with a GS-P branded hand shaft, but I’d like to rebuild it so I always have a spare ready to go. This is a 1988 M998, but I suspect it has been upgraded in the past to 10k axles. Can someone...

Yep, the boot tore right in have right in the middle of the picture. I'll say this was probably one of the easiest fixes yet. Took longer to jack up the vehicle and take off the tire then it did to swap the axle. And yes, you DO need to remove the parking break cable to get the axle out. I...

Well getting Lumber I noticed that the CV boot must have torn on the drive to the lumber yard. Ugh. Just thought everything was working well too.

Injection pump is on top of the engine above the valley (I think it would be difficult to take apart and set there!) Not exactly sure what that is offhand though. The fan, radiator, hoses and other stuff are definitely disconnected. That is a REV the fan sits at that angle, it looks like there...

My HMMWV has a sticker that says (when the 12V system is connected) that you should disconnect the 24V GND and THEN disconnect the middle "ground". (Basically both wires on the - (negative) terminals.). This will prevent any backfeed of power on the 12V circuit (if yours has that.) Note, 12V...

All of the R1s I've seen on the auction site have been 3-speeds. I keep looking for a nice 4-speed, but so far nothing reasonable that I've seen in my part of the country. I guess I'll have to look more closely at the R1s again fi some DO have 4-speed.

Finding and then lining up the 32-35 mark and now I’ve got the gear working again. Thanks! Unfortunately I still have that stupid bouncing speedo needle.. I pulled out the cable, lubed it lightly and put it back in, less of a bounce, but there is still a noticeable bounce. I guess my next...

I won't be home until this weekend, but I'll definitely look for that. From what I saw on the mirror, I just have a lot of dirt up there, but it may very well be under the dirt and maybe that will fix it?! I'll let you know when I can get in there to attempt that.

This definitely sets the gear offset. If it turns out the stamped marking is in the wrong place, that could certainly explain it not working. Hopefully if you set it back to the originaly setting it will work for you. If it does, then I guess I'm going to have to try the same thing. I wish I...

Found them at a website called 'national drive train', and I ordered two (with shipping) for under $30. I'll let people know if they fit or not.

I just found this: NV15054 It looks like it may be the same part with a new integrated rubber washer. (Of course the site I found it on went down as soon as I found it!)