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Sounds like you have an oxidizing flame. Common newby issue that comes from too much oxygen. Watch the YouTube clip. The usual way I teach gas welding is to start without rod. Just try making a little puddle of melt by moving the torch in little tiny circles around the edge of the puddle...
The pressure sensor is on the central CTIS manifold located behind the battery box under the truck. All 6 tires are connected together which means that they should equalize and the pressure of all 6 is measured off the common line at the manifold.
I'm not aware of any cal or adjustment for the...
The valve at each wheel is tied together as one common system feeding it. You cannot control each wheel or axle independently with stock manifold and plumbing. All tires will equalize to same common pressure. The wheel valves pop open with a pulse of air when the pressure difference between...
While I have both 3/4" and 1" drive air impacts, I always finish tighten my lugs using a 3/4 breaker bar and a 6' thick walled pipe. If the spec is for 475ftlbs lug torque, with 6 foot of total bar (the pipe slides over the breaker bar handle completely), a mere 80 ft lbs (a old-fashioned...
If CTIS is off and the truck is sitting, idling, once the tanks are aired up the compressor should only cycle once every 10 or 15 minutes. If it's once a minute, you have a big air leak. The spec is for it to kick in at 90 PSI and shut off at 130 PSI.
If the dryer is fouled up (often seen in...
If the oil is thin, like crankcase oil and not heavy diffie oil, it could be blow-by from the air system. If the dryer isn't serviced and there are/were air leaks causing the compressor to cycle frequently, oil will collect in the CTIS system. It all depends on how much oil and how thick. If...
If it doesn't have a drier, add one! The drag link gums up easily and if there's moisture in the system or oily snot, it's doomed. The wet tank doesnt do a sufficient job dewatering and de oiling. The compressor oily snot is an emulsion that is full of oil and water.
I wasn't studying the...
Search for the bazillion posts on air o matic woes. The drag link is very sensitive to a polluted air system. Fix your dryer as it's probably needing some PM on the filter and desiccant. Then thoroughly drain the tanks of any snot. Then fix any air leaks that cause the compressor to cycle...
Clean out the o ring grooves with a wire brush to remove all rust & dirt down to the metal. Liberally coat the o ring with sil-glyde paste (not spray) before installing. This will both preserve the o ring and help seal the rim halves. Do the same for the grommet.
Try this link to the post for the detailed tire change procedure: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/deuce/265556d1312260797-a3-tire-change-procedure-a3-tire-change-procedure.pdf
Hat tip to mktopside for this rosetta stone of A3 knowledge.
Yup. Gary's dialed in on this one. There is a beautiful document that exactly describes how to pull the tire off the rim correctly, cheaply and safely. Someone posted it and I updated it to add some extra details. Do a search and it will pop up. You can do it one man. It's a clever method...
99% of the time the source of A3 slow leaks is the rubber grommet sealing the fill stem (pipe) to the rim. This little rubber SOB is about the diameter of a quarter and rots out. The only way to replace is to pull the wheel and dismount the tire completely. Cheap part but a total pain to...
Great points, Gary!
Mud is a great source of rust because it holds the water against the metal even though the exterior is dry. The mats on the floor and tranny tunnel will do exactly the same thing.
I won't get on the dexron bandwagon, as there's a bizillion posts and it's a Ford/Chevy...
It's time to get really busy really quick. You essentially submerged your truck. I'll bet there is water in everything since you shut it off in the bog with the majority of the engine underwater. Based upon the symptoms, there's a good chance there is water in the crankcase, the steering...
Agreed. That's why many commercial fleet vehicles have motorminder systems to trip a buzzer whenever air, oil, temp and other things get out of safe operating range. Some minders will shut the engine down if the buzzer rings for more than some short preset time unless you push an override...
I see in your sig you have an A3. Lucky you, welcome to the king of air leaks. On an A3, the most common point for leakage on recovered trucks is the little air regulator used for the air assist steering system. This dumb thing is failed and leaking in many trucks. Check the posts on this...
The buzzer is not required by law. A light or other visual indicator (other than the gauge) is. Such indicators include lights or mechanical 'wig wag' flags. This is a CDL test question!
With that said, I think the buzzer is a good compliment to the light. Lights often burn out. And as...
I put mine on top of the hardtop cab roof. It's out of the way and less likely to get smashed by something being placed on top. It's pretty invisible there and dressed the leads up the back of the cab. I put them inside mesh sleeving and tacked it the rear of the cab using RTV. I put the...
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